#45857, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 0
This is a very interesting question!!!
Time ago I started the reproduction of the wreck site (bow-stern-debris) in 1/1200 scale.
For the ocean floor I'm using...gray cement (powder). You can see the attached images. The Titanic is not the final model but a "prototype" (different changes are necessary considering the new images!).
If the ocean floor appears to clear, consider that many areas will be covered with debris, coal and rust (for example the debris field will be more dark due the coal dust).
I'd like to hear your and other members opinion.
I'll post more pictures as soon as possible of the entire wreck site.
#45869, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 2
My previous answer has been lost...
For my model I'm using the concrete dust that is available in all general stores. This type is usually used for home improvement (especially for walls). Generally is available in 1kg (or more) pocket. One of the advantage is that is not expensive.
I can give you some considerations: 1 - the concrete dust is not a problem if you consider that (generally) all models will be stored inside a box of glass or plexiglas; 2 - if you you are building a big wreck model (1/200 or 1/100) there are solutions for to use a low quantity of concrete dust: for example you can reproduce the hillock where is laying the bow section, using wood or cardboard and subsequently you can cover all with concrete dust. 3 - the level of the ocean (where are located bow, stern and debris field) is almost identical: 3790m (3795m the external area on the left side of the bow and 3785m the external area on the right side). This is a little different and in any way no visible in my scale (1/1200). For this point look: Return to Titanic - pp.124-125 (this map has been attached recently but I don't remember where!).
I decided to use the concrete dust for a simple reason: I have the three Monogram models (Apollo Spacecraft, Saturn V and LEM). Many time ago I was considering something for to create a more realistic surface of the Moon for the LEM model... So...
#45878, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 4
I was wondering if anyone has tried Acrylic Modelling paste or compound and then painting with acrylics, airbrush or whatever you guys use? Just a thought. It can be applied in layers and built up slowly to accurately represent the desired topographic features. It has some "open time" compared to regular acrylic paints and can be reworked until it starts to set. It is very strong stuff and will adhere very well with a mechanical bond to a roughed up/ripped up wooden foundation in the same way true gesso (not totally unlike this material but the consistency or heavy cream) was applied to Egyptian wooden sarcophagi after literally ripping up the wood with an adz. The wood fibers dry in the gesso and you have a locked down surface. I would suggest 16 ply birch Marine or Aircraft plywood as those layers of wood are placed at opposing grain so minimal warping, if any. Much more stable than a single piece of wood. I'm sure you guys probably know all about these materials?
#45881, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 4
Do you need to add water to it at all so it will not shift? If I need to pick up the model and move it, I don't want the stuff to shift around.
I was thinking of making a hollowed out base to pour the water/ dust mix as a mold and set the model in that before it dries. The split mound around the bow's forward end is going to be another layer of dust/water.
#45932, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 12
Just a little thing: pay attention when you use solid concrete or plaster on a wood base. The base could be bended by humidity of material. With additional problem if you need a box for cover your model. The situation is the same when you use many glue on a paperboard. The flat surface becomes bended.
#45935, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 13
the cause of the warping in unequal surface tension. Like a curling photo - that is caused me the contraction of the emulsion so photographs always curve inward. The same with watercolor pater or wood unless thick. The easiest way to mitigate this is to apply some of whatever you are using to the reverse side of the substrate. The material I mentioned in my earlier post will not cause undue warping, especially when used on quality multi-ply plywood where the layers of wood are opposed to prevent warping; the material is also sand-able, paintable...and so on. As it is composed an an acrylic binder and "pigmented" with CaCo2, it will create a surface texture like that of the ocean bottom and like plaster, it can be tinted to any color you like with plain acrylic paints..it can be textured, it can have some sand added without loss of integrity for a different look...it is amazing stuff. Even a coat of clear acrylic resin on the bottom of a substrate will help the problem of warping. With all these materials - do not over dilute with water or you run the risk of under-binding the paint or modelling paste and having problems. Hope this is helpful I have not heard from you - how are your paintings coming along?
#45942, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 15
Eric, the problem that I mentioned occured time ago for other models. About the Titanic I have: - a bow section in scale 1/200, where I used gray sand for to reproduce ocean floor. I started this model time ago and must be finished in different details. I'll post some photo today or tomorrow. - the wreck site in scale 1/1200. The ocean floor is made of concrete dust.
I'd like to build a stern section in scale 1/200, but with a different solution for the ocean floor. So your indications could be very helpful.
#45951, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 16
The easiest thing is Plaster of Paris from any home improvement store. I stapled down loosely some nylon screen like for a screen door first. After the plaser sets up, use wood working to tools to carve shapes and sand it to the surface you want. Do that OUTDOORS. The dust is awful.
Modeling clay comes from an arts and crafts store or possibly floral shop. It takes days to dry. It shrinks when it dries and can curl if applied too thin. It's a lot more expensive. Not recommended for this.
Model filler putty can be added anywhere on the plaster for small touches. Anything you use needs to be painted.
#45955, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 18 Fri Apr-13-12 03:33 PMby mauretania1906
the material I describe, acrylic modelling paste, handles like Plaster of Paris without the mixing, heat or long cure time. It is also east to add to after it dries. Same pigment as well, CaCo2, - same texture, also sand-able etc. It can be brushed, poured, thinned, tinted etc. Dries dead flat, mat and slightly grainy if you like. As Roy said, modelling clay is not suitable, and I think concrete powder is toxic? This stuff is quite safe.
#45956, "RE: modelling the ocean floor for a wreck model" In response to Reply # 19
Eric, how I told before, the concrete dust is not absolutely the best solution. This is only an attempt for to reproduce the ocean floor without paints, water or other. Probably is realistic, but not the best.
Consider that the thickness is approximately of 1mm, the model will be inside a box. Even if there is a minimum quantity of dust, will not be possible to breathe it.