#5592, "Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
This is something I have been planning for about 3 years. I will be posting my build log here so i hope you can help me out with feedback and criticism where warranted. I am currently posting on another forum but am receiveing little to no feedback and although I am familiar with that particular organisation, I feel that the military orientation to the page may make a Titanic build log somewhat benign.
this is a simple preliminary post to introduce myself and to state my objectives. I am an accomplished diorama and armour model builder, but have very limited shipbuilding experience. I have very limited knowledge of the terms used but am willing to learn to use the right names for various things where needed.
Why I chose the Academy kit ?
I probably would not of with the aid of hindsight but I spent my money and decided to stick it through. Besides I am finding it very difficult to find another complete build log of this particular kit online so maybe an opportunity to discover what this kit has to offer for others to use aswell? I bought the Academy kit #1458 3 years ago when I was weekend manager of a hobby shop, and before I left I got it because I liked the eye candy of the box art, and nothing else was like it in the shop. After buying it I got advanced modellers syndrome again and instantly needed photo etch hand rails. From there I bought the complete set of 1/400 Toms PE sets for this kit. As I began assembly, however I realised I was in over my head, had not planned enough how I was going to do this build, and certainly began making mistakes. The kit was shelved "for later".
Fast forward to christmas this year and I saw the anniversary kit for sale and just had to have it with all that PE and the timber decks.. and now I have it. I now know of many issues with this kit, and will happily blog my way through them for your benefit.
What I did lack and it was very apparent was quality reference material, so I have spent much time reading and buying books for thsi project. The two primary reference books that have been just outstanding have been the "Titanic in photographs" (from this website), and Peter Davies-garners Handbook on model building the Titanic. Other books include various titles but none as professional as these two.
Where I am at now.
Actually I am at work right now, but be home soon (post some WIP pictures)I have already put a few hours into this kit and started making corrections/ modifications. Pictures to follow soon. I am struggling with the well decks and some issues there but more on that later.
If anyone is interested in what sort of work I normally do, here are some links ( I hope I post them correctly)
#5599, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202" In response to Reply # 0 Mon Mar-12-12 04:02 PMby adamskii
Thanks for the well wishes.
SO getting into the promised pics, I wont waste too much time on backstory , just be aware that I have two kits , the old one and the AE kit, and am building 1 Titanic with the older one as spare parts backup and trial assembly parts..
In the first pic I have shown the first mod - sanding off the raised letters of Titanic on the bow. The keel at the front is quite wront when compared to pictures - it just rounds out to flat fromthe front, and doesnt have the gradual kick from flat and this means several of t he strakes are misalaigned. most strakes on this kit areterribly misaligned but that is beyond my skills to fix. The anchor housing is also too far back and should not be under the 1st porthole, but fore of it some way (about 6 mm forward)
Also I noted that the kit only had 15 portholes in the balwark on the fo'c'sle (?) and the photos show there should be 16. So I found the offending porthole on drilled them where they should be. The same for the stern.
Another mod was cutting off the rails that are part of the moulded balwark for the poop dec k and fo'c'sle plus sanding flush ready for PE Rails later
you can see where the old wrong porthole that has not been filled yet was..
the biggest mod so far is the realisation there are some issues with the well decks. Firstly, the fore well deck is horizontal and not parralel with the keel line - so it has an uneven balwark that reduces in height front to back - this will be rapaired but not just yet.
The more pressing issue that I have to fix is the missing areas under the poopdeck and fo'c'sle on the well decks. The academy kit has complete fiction of what his looks like and is just a poor lazy example of cost cutting production. SO using the plans In Peter Davies-Garner book which are almost exactly at scale,(1:386) I cut the holes where they should be, and will back fill them with styrene.
Thats a very quick catch up for this morning. I hope the html works! Theres loads of other pics I want to share but they can wait till later.
#5600, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202" In response to Reply # 2 Mon Mar-12-12 05:03 PMby Jonathan
Welcome and thank you for the updates on the photo's. Over the past few weeks I have been toying over getting the deluxe Academy kit. Not bad considering I am a huge fan of the Minicraft 1:350. The 1:400 with the newer ingredients such as PE and wooden decks is very appealing. But, as you know yourself, the kit does have it flaws. Nothing major and with patience, the possibilities to alter.
(Adamski) as in flying saucer Adamski or UK 90s dance artist?
#5603, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202" In response to Reply # 3
Thankyou for your comments. Adamskii as in silly sounding.. nothing deeper than that! This build I hope will enlighten those such as yourself to potential issues and amount opf work required (OR skill) to fix. I am most certainly going to try and fix what I think I can -but know i have limitations and some of the more aggresive issuess wont get touched.
#5604, "Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 0
Quick update, took the pics of the holes i cut in the bulkheads of the welldecks to accomodate the missing areas. Will build out of styrene, its small area and shouldnt be a problem. The floor is only challenge as the veneer deck of course dows not allow for this mod, but there is enough scrap veneer on the matrix of the sheet to backfill.
#5605, "RE: Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 5
Good stuff. This was my second Titanic kit after the 1:570 and I was so excited by its size and detail I just threw it together. I'm a lot more patient these days. It's good to see a few people trying to get the very best out of it. I'd like to try it again with the skills I've picked up over the years. I wouldn't have know where to start modifying the well decks etc in those days. I'll be following with interest.
#5609, "RE: Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 5 Wed Mar-14-12 01:29 PMby adamskii
some pics of the interior "annex's"? to the well decks construction sequence.
drawn the wall plan on the underside of the deck - it is mirrored to the real plan as it is upside down
added some walls the height of the well deck bulkhead, also some doors where appropriate, the double doors I used a thick piece of styrene with scribe line in the middle
the aft welldeck annex has its new floor fitted, and the fore well deck walls have been installed
and lastly a couple views looking in from thetop - very hard to get a good camera angle. the fittings within will be either scavenged from the spare kit or scratchbuilt after the veneer is in and painting done
Interior details will be added after painting, deck veneer assembled. especially the crane posts. A good picture would be handy .. but thats the problem I guess ? lol
#5611, "RE: Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 5
Bit of an update. Been rather busy but managed to start some good momentum happening.
Firstly, I have painted the well deck bulkheads and balwarks with the suggested colour. Amazing how many variations everyone has - but the better models seem top have a lighter colour than darker in the brown, and remembering to lighten the hue for scale consideration, I added about 25% white to the brown mix, and 5 % orange to tint it more like the Peter Davis-Garner colour. Not qute there but I am satisfied with it. Apparently this brown is also used on the masts. The deck details are otherwise painted with floquil weathered black - much more appropriate for the scale and less contrast than sharp straight black.
As you can see I also put some decking down. the trick is I painted the deck details first - that way when the veneer goes down you get that lovely clean crisp line. very tidy. I stuffed up the fo'c'sle stowage bay by not trimming enough stuff away as suggested in the blueprints, and was left having to make an alteration - but I can easily fix it and add the angled brackets later from photo etch.
The deck is an absolute joy and I am very pleased to see this in situi - I have really pushed hard to get this down early on just to indicate how it looks - especially when compared to the suggested humbrol colour on the plain deck (without veneer)
Also while waiting for the piant to dry I masked off the hull and did the anti fouling. Once again I used the reccomended floquil colour. However I did not spray it over the black, I first sprayed another coat of black to seal the masking (old radio control car body shell trick to stop bleeding) then when dry painted white primer, and lastly painted the reddish brown colour. By undercoating with white the red pops much better. Ther is very small waterline "line" along the hull to guide the mask - I followed that line. And by the way I did paint the hull black - its just painted satin black and will be dulled with a coat of dull coat or matt varnish very soon..
So of course lots of things to do to those 4 decks(2 x well decks, fo'c'sle and poop). And lots of issues to fix with the balwark inside the fore well deck, but as I said slowly building momentum.
#5612, "RE: Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 9
With the wooden decks inplace, how do such things like the bollard sets sit. Do they still sit with some height of the bollard base above the wooden decks, or do the decks now fit flush with the top of the bollard base with just the two bits looking as if they stick up out of the deck without a base.
#5614, "RE: Well decks Continued" In response to Reply # 10
>Adam > >With the wooden decks inplace, how do such things like the >bollard sets sit. Do they still sit with some height of the >bollard base above the wooden decks, or do the decks now fit >flush with the top of the bollard base with just the two bits >looking as if they stick up out of the deck without a base. > >Hope you understand what I mean by that.
Hello and thankyou for your question. The thickness of the veneer timber is about 0.75mm and about 30gsm of adhesive on the back = approx <1mm of deck. That does bring the timber up to the same level as the concrete plinths that the steam and electric winches sit on - they are almost flush , the concrete ever so slightly higher. The deck bollards (confusing name for me as I am used to calling something else a bollard) also have the same however the base does sit higher than the concrete and if I was to hazard how high the base only of the bollards sit above the deck it would be <0.5mm. However, I believe that the contrast of the deck to the bollard/ concrete and other details, has a sharp enough line that offers the impression of scale differential with height. In other words, looks proportional, especially at 1/400 scale.
I hope that makes sense and helps answer your question. My issue will be the waterways and the insides of the bulwarks. the timber , while being extraordinarily precise in the cutting of the holes for various details (the matrix), does have a less than 0.5mm lateral shift of some of the parts and in order to be even on both sides will have to trim one side or fill the other or hope that the railing when installed conceals any misalignment - to the naked eye its very hard to discern.
managed to mask off and paint the hull stripe as mentioned earlier. Using the humbrol colour from the guide. Nice colour.
I really am the worst type of modeller- very impatient! I attached one of the sides with tape just for looks.. Had no bleed at all, but had about 2 x 5mm "kinks" in the line where masking tape had to turn a corner on the stern, but a quick scrape with the knife cleaned that up. ALso gave hull first coats of dull coat, and started to buff some shadow into the plating.
#5617, "RE: hull stripe " In response to Reply # 14
It look really neat and good job to do on the painting with yellow stripe! Now you are not the worst modeler anymore! But, I seen other "master modeler" have been used the yellow tape to used as hull stripe!! I can't believe they was used yellow tape than paint it as good as your model. Again, Your model are get really good and forward to see your model to be finished!
#5618, "RE: hull stripe " In response to Reply # 15
I saw that you have cut the forecastle and the quarterdeck as Indeed, on these there are no corners. Myself having to buy the same model as you, I'm trying to do and I have the same problems. Could I know what material was thanks to you your cut pieces of plastic pieces and so by what means you have assembled in order to achieve these corners that do not appear on the artwork?
Thank you in advance for your answer. Steve Lebourg
#5619, "RE: hull stripe " In response to Reply # 16
>Hello Adam, > >I saw that you have cut the forecastle and the quarterdeck as >Indeed, on these there are no corners. Myself having to buy >the same model as you, I'm trying to do and I have the same >problems. Could I know what material was thanks to you your >cut pieces of plastic pieces and so by what means you have >assembled in order to achieve these corners that do not appear >on the artwork? > >Thank you in advance for your answer. >Steve Lebourg
Hello Steve and thanks for the question.
I think you mean the annex's under the poopdeck and the for'c'sle deck/forecastle deck - these are the entrances to the 3rd class areas. May I ask if you read the section of this blog on how I approached that problem ? I detailed as best I could (including materials)in pictures how I have added these sections (or "corners" as you call it). Please have a look at the posts entitled "well decks continued".
If this is not enough information or I have it wrong, I have used the deck drawings and pictures mostly from "RMS Titanic - A Modelmakers manual", by Peter Davies-Garner; which has exquisite drawings might I add. The material I have used to rebuild the corners is simply "Evergreen " brand sheet and strip styrene.
I really hope that helps in some way, please me again to clarify if I have misunderstood.
#5620, "a few noted kit corrections" In response to Reply # 0
Hello folks , today I wanted to touch on some of the kit corrections. I know its a bit out of step but the forum on researching models had a very interesting list of corrections for this kit and I spent a little time this evening looking at them.
Firstly - the wheel house wall in the kit is curved (interior wall) ( I probably should say bulkhead but wall sounds more natural) This will have to be scratchbuilt and the floor and roof modified to accept the change. ALso will have to surgically insert a fill piece of the timber floor there too.
Also in this pic can see that the two boat deck stairwell covers are actually covered and should be open with flat tops and an angled front. this is a more simple modification. noted on pic with a cross(s)
There was aslo a vent that needs to be moved on the boat deck. It sits out in no mans land but should be up against the wall. I have marked the shift on the pic. Also a small surgical patch of veneer will need to be made to conceal the pre cut deck.Fortunately there is lots of spare deck to choose from!
Lastly I painted the "Tom's" model works phot etch windows last night. never have I seen such a small and detailed fret of PE. Anyways I just had to try out in a inconspicuous wall some of the windows. This pic gives an idea of how small they are! more pics of the results later..
#5628, "RE: hull stripe " In response to Reply # 19
>Hi Adam > >Did you just mask and brush the yellow sheer line? > >Its looks really well. > >Ste Spenser
Yes masked, no brush, used airbrush. The hull stripe was masked with Tamiya tape. Carefully. It is approx 1.5mm high. It is masked in line with the rivets to keep it as straight as possible (for a curved line). To prevent bleed - first I airbrush the hull colour again (black) that way any bleed is unnoticeable and also bleed gaps "sealed". Then airbrush the yellow once the black was dry.
I hope that helps more clearly, thanks for the question and taking time to read my work.
#5640, "RE: a few noted kit corrections" In response to Reply # 18 Wed Mar-21-12 03:27 PMby stevanovitch
Adamskii - I think you`re doing some excellent work here. Your airbrushed sheer stripe for instance, looks far better than a transfer. Your work is inspiring my own work (on the same model), thanks to your exacting methods.
I just hope you realise that, to some people on this site, working on the Academy model is, for one reason or another, nothing short of blasphemous; It isn`t the most accurate model in the world but then again, if the Minicraft model was so exact(even though it`s a fine model), we wouldn`t have so many people scratch building parts for it. C`est la vie!
keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing more.
#5643, "RE: a few noted kit corrections" In response to Reply # 21
>Adamskii - I think you`re doing some excellent work here. >Your airbrushed sheer stripe for instance, looks far better >than a transfer. Your work is inspiring my own work (on the >same model), thanks to your exacting methods. > >I just hope you realise that, to some people on this site, >working on the Academy model is, for one reason or another, >nothing short of blasphemous; It isn`t the most accurate model >in the world but then again, if the Minicraft model was so >exact(even though it`s a fine model), we wouldn`t have so many >people scratch building parts for it. C`est la vie! > >keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing more. > > >Steve
Thanks for the comments Steve. Regarding the Academy vs Minicraft statement, Im unsure if such model kit snobbery exists and while some my have a preference for one brand over another, I have no doubt that everone who participates in this site is professional enough and decicated enough to the standard of the website to allow any such nonsense to occur. Indeed I have not seen any untoward comments, and relish the opportunity to do the very best Academy kit I can. I did think to myself I wish the two kits were in same scale as a combined kit would be very very interesting indeed! I havecertainly witnessed such snobbery in the armour modelling world where hierarchy of kits and even era definitely exist! ww2 german armour rules the roost and ther are many Dragon/DML fanboys.. While I like modern armour and am a Tamiya nut! go figure lol..
#5644, "RE: a few noted kit corrections" In response to Reply # 18
OK more photo updates for today. I try to do at least 1 - 2 hours of practical modelling a day, but usually end up rsearching and reading reference instead ! lol.
Firstly the assembled windows from the previous post
Some other examples of Tom's photo etch windows.
The PE is incredibly small, and I suggest has been made to proper scale and to be as accurate as possible. unlike most custom pe kits that are made for a soecific kit so the pe fits, the Toms stuff is uncompromised and is simply generic for all 1/400 scale kits so doesnt account for the poor window design or errors on the Academy kit. Indeed most of the window frames seem to fall through the windows they are supposed to be on! also the silly part is all the windows are pretty much black/ dark behind on an unlit model so only the frame is visible and not the detail within the frame.
I did paint some frames - I masked and painted the fore bulkhead windows of b deck As the photo etch didnt look right.
compare that to the first effort done with pen from the trial kit ..
Lastly, I also shaved some of the ribs under A deck as they foul the fit with the walls underneath.
#5653, "update" In response to Reply # 0 Sun Mar-25-12 07:32 AMby adamskii
Hello folks - sorry for bouncing around in the thread there, I see some prefer to have the posts sequential so will continue in that method from now.
Anyways reasonable sized update. Havent done so for a few days now and have been working very hard at getting the "shell" ready for all that deck Acne.
Painted the canvas covers of the cargo hatches. WIll fabricate the fordeck cargo hatch very soon.
put the two thermo tanks in the annex under the aft welldeck
started on the upper decks. ALOT of photo etch with the windows and alot of modifying to get them to fit. However one of the best things about the Academy kits update is the photo etch sheet includes the boiler casing roof tops for the deck houses. These PE pieces include the ribbing detail, but most importantly the stokehold vents and the Fidley vents. Also they make painting a bit simpler. Justr alot of work masking. I have started weathering for light scale (shadow and highlight)
here are two of the boiler casing roofs
As mentioned in previous post, scratchbuilt the A deck bulkhead here are the windows.
some of the other photo etch windows installed.
Also have managed to install 99% of the timber decking - the two expansion joints need to be installed yet. The Academy Anniversary kit is missing the timber for the rearmost deckhouse with the very small cubic room above it , and the two 1/4 round wings on it. (I have no idea what this is called). Either way Academy beieve it's roof to be white, as do some other modellers, but the more "researched" models have it timbered so I planked it aswell. I also planked the wheel house with the straight wall instead of the curved one (scratchbuilt).
Anyways some pics.
alot of tidying up work to be done here
Painting the boiler casing rooftops is a detective puzzle for sure! the TRMA guide is simply brilliant and solves much. However funnel no 4 has a two part colour and where the line goes between them is hard to tell in plan. Also the 1/48 Peter Davies-Garner model has funnel no 3 rooftop with timber decking. The TRMA diagram has light grey on the starport wing. I went with the light grey. Another problem with either me, the Academy kit, or the information is the fidley vents. As mentioned above the Academy kit has those wonderfull PE boiler casing tops, but, only 3.. there are 4 funnels, so which one misses out? according to the instructions the are installed on funnel 2 3 and 4. Problem is, If I understanbd correctly, that because number 4 was a dummy, it probably shouldnt have fidley vents or stokehold vents. PLEASE correct me if I have that wrong - it is difficult to find exactly what I want and everyone is doing different stuff on theoir models. Once again Peter's 1/48 has no evidence of fidley vents on no.4 as shown in the colour pics of his book. That makes sense in no 4 is a dummy. But then Academy provide individual vents for funnel no.1. I think someone messed up the Academy instructions and you should install the no. 4 photo etch part on funnel no.1 and not install any fidley vents on No.4 casing.
Here's the pics anyways..
note the beautiful PE glass dome cover..
A close up of the 3rd anchor. I like the photo etch deck grills.
And I am very happy because I finally had my limited edition print framed and is hung on the Family room wall. It is by Barry Spicer, and is limited to 1523 - the number of people who died (at the time of the painting - I know that number changes often!) I have number 145. It is massive - about 120cm wide by 90cm high! not including the frame or matt.
Adam, It looks to me that you have fitted PE part number 99 on the wrong funnel deckhouse roof. I`m fairly sure it should have been fitted to No 1 funnel deckhouse roof instead. There are no fidley grates on No4 funnel deckhouse roof, and you will see that the vent ducts (PE part numbers 103 & 104 on the Academy kit) you have yet to fit will obscure the grates and hatch covers you mistakenly added to No 4.
As you say, the instructions that come with the Academy kit are very confusing, I think it might be easier to learn Mandarin Chinese than make sense of their Photo Etch plans!
One more thing - you should have cut off the small "fins" at either side of the front of funnel deckhouse No 4. These are to be replaced with PE railing part numbers 42a and 43a.
Keep up the good work Adam, it`s still coming along nicely.
>Adam, It looks to me that you have fitted PE part number 99 >on the wrong funnel deckhouse roof. I`m fairly sure it should >have been fitted to No 1 funnel deckhouse roof instead. There >are no fidley grates on No4 funnel deckhouse roof, and you >will see that the vent ducts (PE part numbers 103 & 104 on the >Academy kit) you have yet to fit will obscure the grates and >hatch covers you mistakenly added to No 4. > >As you say, the instructions that come with the Academy kit >are very confusing, I think it might be easier to learn >Mandarin Chinese than make sense of their Photo Etch plans! > >One more thing - you should have cut off the small "fins" at >either side of the front of funnel deckhouse No 4. These are >to be replaced with PE railing part numbers 42a and 43a. > >Keep up the good work Adam, it`s still coming along nicely. > >Regards > >Steve
Thanks for the comments Steve. I knew the instructions were wrong - should of gone with my gut instinct and placed part 99 on front funnel. Fortunately I use superglue sparingly - the PE was lifting at the slightest touch, so will change that up tonight. Also the wings on the deckhouse are a very easy fix - I wasnt sure about them wither - but once again the instructions do not include removing them. Is always a challenge when you cant trust the instructions - especially updates corrected ones @ that !
PS - lotsof stuff to tidy up on that model - eg the yellow line I know does not go on top of the bulwark wall in the well decks - will fix that up later when Less chance of me marking the white. Adam
#5683, "more updates" In response to Reply # 24 Thu Mar-29-12 11:59 PMby adamskii
Hi again, been a while since updating. I prefer to do it daily but low traffic might as well do it less frequent with larger info packets.
So I switched the abovementioned photo etch funnel housing issues around. SImple fix but annoying. I have also started adding some deck acne and problem solving some other issues.
I like to build tanks and armoured vehicles primarily, and this is very different - usually I build the box/hull and then add the details. THEN paint at the very end. Here is paint as you go and no solid box to build upon. I guess thats why I want the hull and decks glued together sooner than later so I can add my details to the solid box that is the hull. ALso I dont like how flexible the top deck is and if I add the rigging, and it flex's it might adjust rigging tensions..
So Im out of sequence.
BY the way of anyone has a spare copy of Toms Titanic detail set instruction I be much obliged if they could email them to me - I have lost mine and am guessing much with some of the parts..
So some pics.
an attempt at one of the benches - and the hole in the deck where the machinery was positioned incorrectly (yet to be patched)
note the size difference between Toms benches and Academy ones at apparently the same scale...
and the foredeck. I scratched the steam lines, have yet to add the valve handles, and paint the capstains etc etc... lots work yet and lots missing details to be scratched...
Thats all for now , more to follow later.,
PS i bought the Titanic owners workshop manual from haynes - OMG its brilliant - had more valuable information in it than pretty much any other book I own so far (until I get TTSM pt 1 and 2) I also goit the 101 fact you thought you knew about Titanic, and am currently losing much sleep reading that fascinating book - excellent value for money!
#5684, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 27
this is going to be a superb model by the time you get done. Easily a candidate for the Finished Models gallery, I think.
One thing that we're seeing more and more of here, as with your model, is a trend toward better research by the modeler as to proper paint colors and key modifications for accuracy. On your model, for example, it's obvious that you took the time to go through the Paint Reference on this site. Your hatch covers just look like canvas because you took the time to get that detail right. Same thing with your roof colors and such. And it goes without saying that the wooden decks, neatly applied, are worth their weight in gold.
I do have one suggestion with regard to the latter. See if you can lightly stain the planks between the chain races on the Fo'c'stle Deck to simulate the teak planking at that location. Ideally the planks should be wider here, but of course you can't change them at this stage. It goes without saying that you should experiment first on scrap pieces until you get the shade right, and are confident of applying the stain uniformly across the entire surface - otherwise the visual effect will be worse than doing nothing. I would use a very diluted stain; perhaps even a heavily thinned paint; if you attempt to use full-strenght stain directly, I'm afraid the wood will just absorb it too quickly to yield an even coloring - especially since you're working within confined borders and can't apply the stain across a wide area with a single continuous brush stroke.
I see you're moving one vent to its correct location -- there's another that needs to be moved, if you're so inclined. See the photo below. Also, depending on how much corrective work you want to go through at this stage, the notches in the raised roof on either side only existed on Olympic - these gaps were decked over on Titanic (although the alcoves beneath remained). The vents at these locations were also positioned directly over these gaps, by the way.
Should you choose not to make these corrections, it's certainly understandable, as you need to assess whether the quality of your fixes will be sufficiently undetectable.
#5685, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 28
Thankyou for your comments Art. I am quite motivated by them to be even more dilligent - I cannot believe I did not translate what I was seeing in pictures and plans onto the model. I knew something was wrong with the alcoves - the Peter Davies;Garner model had me struggling to understand why the machinery on his compass platform deck looked so different to mine.
So heres some updates on fault Correction.
Firstly - the moving of the vent
first step is remove a large area of planking - the larger the area the less obvious there is a change made..
a suitable matching piece is cut from the left over matrix.
just for kicks this is how much was left over--- quite a bit.
I shave off the vent mounting plinth, and locate the inlay over the cut out
then square it off with sharp knife
to completely hide the seam, I will use pine wood putty in the joint, just like normal filler in plastic joins. Need to buy some putty tomorrow though.
The Alcove correction.
I will do the starport alcove first. It is the easier of the two to fix. (If I dont keep breaking the bench off) Can also see the first patch I did from the vent move- this patch is ordinary and unless the filler conceals it I will cut it out and try again.
I cutr back/ peel off some of the deck from area to be fixed - saving this peel for later. and then shave the vent plinth down to deck level.
cut out the alcove from being wedge shaped to being square - will make fitting a filler piece easier.
fit a filler block from sheet styrene strip. Sand it square.
I lay the old deck on some spare pieces and trim a new whole piece which includes the new ledge over the alcove.
lastly I paint the new section white, I should of airbrushed it foir consistency, but I brush painted it. Then fitted the new deck section.
In this pic you can see the 3 corrections ( 2 x deck replacements and the alcove repair). ALso I used the Toms photo etch fidley vents - they are much nice and better defined than the Academy ones - and I painted them black as it seems to be the colour commonly used oin the more researched models.
I also added some more detail to the fo'c'stle earlier, will attempt the stain tomorrow - I think simple matt varnish with a smoke tint will darken it slightly. First I want to verify what and where the black vent/grill is that goes between the chains is.
And added a couple more cranes to the poop and well decks aft.
So I hoppe those fixes are easy to understand- I really appreciate the heads up on those Art - It would of been harder to fix after the fittings and railings were added! I will do the port side alcove tomorrow. So many sub level details to add - all the little phot etch ladders for example. Definitely a time consuming project!
#5686, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 29 Fri Mar-30-12 10:03 AMby Art Braunschweiger
Nice mini-tutorial - I'm sure a few people will appreciate that. And great job on decking over the alcove - assembling parts in their predetermined locations is one thing, but doing what you did is the mark of a true scratchbuilder!
One suggestion: try cutting your patches with the deck planking sheet upside down. I suspect that the blade is making an indentation into the soft wood and causing the edges of your cuts to be rounded downwards slightly, which may cause your joints to be more visible than they need to be. You can't do that when you cut out the spot on the deck, but you can mitigate the problem by using a fresh blade right out of the box, and making your cuts in a series of several gradual cuts using a slicing motion, rather than pressing hard and making your cut all at once.
Also take the time to select your patch from an area of planking that will match best in terms of individual plank shades and hues.
#5688, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 27
Adam, I don`t need to tell you how much I`m enjoying this log. Give me your email adress, I`ve just scanned in my Tom`s instruction sheets ready to send to you, but I can`t attach them using this sites` internal email system.
Hello again. Thank you all fort the comments they are much appreciated - the advice is very much welcomed and I will study each offering in depth.
Some pics to catchup on few more details I was working on today.
Firstly the port side alcove has now been planked
added some machinery to the vent on the roof (circled) this is not included in the kit but looks like a square duct that leaves a motor mounted behind the hook vent. I used a spare motor from my spare kit, and made the duct from styrene tube.
the vent with the motor attached that is starport side , aft of funnel no 1 is backwards. So I cut the top off and turned it around. here is the piece before and after alteration.
Also I noticed the steam pipe that runs from second class entrance roof to the false funnel rooftop, shouldnt.
I just cut it and turned it around using the precast curve as the elbow where I wanted it, and trimmed the remainder so it sat at the right height. You can also see the photo etch ducts from the dummy funnel in this pic.
Started to play with ladders for walls today aswell and once I have a better understanding which ones are black and which are white will add a pic of that progress.
I have added the expansion joints and some evidence can be seen above, but I believe I have some tidying to do yet.
#5699, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 34 Sat Mar-31-12 09:04 PMby Art Braunschweiger
Hold on, Adam, that "steam pipe" is the flue from the 1st Class Smoke Room, and it doesn't make a downward curve into the roof of the deckhouse - it runs into the after side of the No. 4 funnel, just to left of center.
I also noticed something else - the deck planking section you used for the roof of the after 2nd Class Entrance has two holes in it forward and aft of the elevator machinery housing room. I suspect when you put that planking piece into place you misaligned it by 90 degrees. The holes are for the vents that flank the machinery housing room on either side. You can easily fill in the holes, of course; just make sure you put the vents in the right places.
#5700, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 35
Art - I think he have the roof just "right". As In the Minicraft model there is one hole for the misplaced pipe (you can see it running to this hole on one of his photos) and one for the rigging. If I remember correct, I do believe this piece on the Minicraft model have four holes in it.
#5701, "RE: more updates" In response to Reply # 35
>Hold on, Adam, that "steam pipe" is the flue from the 1st >Class Smoke Room, and it doesn't make a downward curve into >the roof of the deckhouse - it runs into the after side of the >No. 4 funnel, just to left of center. > >I also noticed something else - the deck planking section you >used for the roof of the after 2nd Class Entrance has two >holes in it forward and aft of the elevator machinery housing >room. I suspect when you put that planking piece into place >you misaligned it by 90 degrees. The holes are for the vents >that flank the machinery housing room on either side. You can >easily fill in the holes, of course; just make sure you put >the vents in the right places. > >Art Braunschweiger >TRMA Trustee
hello Art and thankyou for your comments. They are very much aprreciated. I would like to answer some of them one at a time if I may..
the curved pipe - I corrected the straight part of the pipe that runs to the 2nd class entrance - which clearly it shouldnt. The kit has it running from the roof of that entrance to the roof of the deckhouse! so both ends of that pipe are incorrect. I believe I hAve fixed only one end - the one that now goes to the roof of the smoking room. The other end that will connect to the funnel will be fixed once the funnel is attached. I will probably replace the whole thing as it will show a few bends and breaks by the time I'm finished. So I hope I have fixed what I guess could be called the aft end of the flue only making this correction literally half done. I copied what has been done on the 1/48 model using the pictures and plans in his book. (Peter Davies-Garner)
The deck planking section of the aft elevator roof - the Academy kit seems to be undecisive what the surface should be. It is moulded with a timber grain on the wings and the roof, but the Anniversary edition kit does not include any timber sections on the veneer sheets and the instructions claim it should be painted white! Plainly wrong when checked against the TRMA painting guide etc. So I scatchbuilt the wood plank by cutting out a spare bit from the left overs. I mentioned this back in post number 24 of this thread. So the orientation of the two holes is certainly not from a kit supplied part. Furthermore the planks run along the length of the ship and a misoriented plank set would look quite out of place (east west) and these run according to plan. I drilled the two holes that can be seen because the kit had the holes there in the plastic roof and I just drilled out what was already there., However we know know the fore most hole is wrong s it is where the kit mates the flue mentioned above. Also, the aft most hole is for some other detail yet to be added (according to the instruction) . The two holes left and right of the elevator housing are yet to be drilled to mount the cylindrical details. I can see how the two holes in the wrong place could be mistaken for two missing holes from the right place , when misoriented at 90 degrees.
I hope that makes some sense.. if not trust me and all we be right by the end.
PLease, everyone, please keep challenging my build if you see any inconsistency or issues - I rather have opportunity to fix them now than when the rails are in place! Or at least the opportunity to offer a reason for the apparent fault.
Thankyou so much for your diligence! I feel like the members of this website are living up to their mission statement of "sharing their knowledge without reservation to further the pursuit of model making" .
#5704, "the infamous white star buff - my trials" In response to Reply # 37
As I need to get the funnels mounted to fix up the flue pipe, I need them pianted. So here is my version of White Star Buff.
Firstly, as its a seems to be hit and miss and we all know the issues of this colour, I just used whatever I had to set a benchmark colour to work against. So I printed the TRMA paint guide in colour. Now I know that every printer wont reproduce a colour exactly as intended, indeed when producing a colour on a screen it is influenced by the illuminated screen amongst other things, but as I said - it gives me a starting point.
Then I used the guide , and the colours I had at my disposal, to make something as close as possible to the "suggested" colour by Ken Marschall. Here you can see my test patterns! I circled the ones that were closest tp the mark to the print page, the circle at the top being the mix I went with. The difficulty of course is even now looking at the photo it suffers from the same issues above..
SO once I chose a variation of the colour, I painted the funnels. The colours I used are a combination of Floquil flesh and SP Armotur yellow (50:50) with a slight tint of Refer White and ATSF Mineral brown (80:20. The first two colours that carry the main hue were given a deeper shade with the red brown (this shifts the hue slightly darker), and then brought back up to pale with the white.
Anyways this is my results - have posed the funnels on the deck for the pic, and taken it in natural light outside - it is an overcast day but still quite bright!
As a side note, in red are all the missing vents or fans or other machinery so far I have found/ corrected from the Academy kit. Fortunately I had the spare kit as I raided all the fans etc to modify for this build. Worst part is this is not finished yet and I know of more yet to come..some are hidden by the funnels. And Ihave not yet made the water tank for behind no 1 funnel...
#5710, "funnels and watertank" In response to Reply # 39
Thanks for the very kind comments Art.
I have painted the funnel tops black (along with the top of the steam pipes). My only concern is there is nothing moulded on that looks remotely like steam whistles.. I guess I be scratching them too.
And also assembled a watertank. Managed to finally get all the fans in the right places (I Hope) that were not included. Still have to add the two black roof vents for the wireless room, and I am unhappy with the pipe that runs parralel to the deck - I dont think it should be a pipe at all ? looks like a box tube construction that somehow supports an annex? anyways.. will read more and work it out!
The problem is that for every model company out there, the guy who designed that part for the mold didn't understand what it was and got it wrong. All the kits have it as a pipe that curves up or down at one or both ends, whereas in reality it was mounted to the top of the Gibbs Extractor vent at one end and atop the edge of the stokehold vent at its other end (the latter vent must have had some sort of provision to allow the pipe to slide back and forth since it spanned the forward expansion joint.) It also had a support just aft of the expansion joint.
Peter Davies-Garner has this as being square in cross-section rather than cylindrical like a pipe; I think the jury is out on that one. I don't know what information he based this design on. Perhaps someone else knows.
This is an example of a detail that's easily corrected with impressive results for only a few cents of material. Styrene rod is available in diameters down to .010, which allows the modeler to replace the horribly oversized kit part with a replacement of the correct scale diameter.
#5717, "Rafter cross-section" In response to Reply # 41
Art Braunschweiger wrote: >Peter Davies-Garner has this as being square in cross-section >rather than cylindrical like a pipe; I think the jury is out >on that one. I don't know what information he based this >design on. Perhaps someone else knows.
Art and Adam,
I've seen a close-up photo of the rafter on Olympic in the 1930s, and it was definitely rectangular then. Unless there's some evidence that it was round in cross-section at an earlier date, I'd say rectangular or square is the way to go.
#5719, "RE: funnels and watertank" In response to Reply # 40
Excellent attention to detail Adam - I`m in love with that watertank! I only wish that I had a spare kit to raid; as you have noted, there is so much missing on the Acadamy kit. Looking forward to seeing more.
#5720, "RE: Rafter cross-section" In response to Reply # 43
Below is a maiden voyage Olympic photo showing the the rafter and the bracket for the rafter on the stokehold vent. You can see that the rafter is rectangular in cross section and the bracket is shaped to match.
#5726, "update deck houses and funnel stays" In response to Reply # 0
Happy Easter folks.
Been slowly moving along addingthe finishing touches to the deck houses and boat decks so can Add the funnel stays.
I have done the handrails to all but funnel no 3 deckhouse. And am working out what thread I will use for the stays.
I have two primary threads - the one that came with the kit and a super fine nylon thats about half as thick as human hair.
here's the two in action..
I also have bead thread which would be somewhere in between, and will have to try that aswell. The superfine stuff is probably closest scale wise, but doesnt look right if that makes sense? the kit supplied thread is very very heavy and looks overbearing. So like goldilocks I need thread thats just right.,,
Anyways some other pics while I'm here -
this one you can see the reshaped flue from the smoke room to the no4 funnel.
railings around the pump room
railings and compass platform (still have to add some minor details in there..) on the lounge roof
officers quarters railing and the awning rail as previously discussed.
Also added a few bench chairs but now the rails are on I can add the rest to those areas.
Next step is rig the funnel stays, followed by the two long white sides and glue it all down to the main hull... that will be fun.
then I can add the lifeboats and their davits and finish up the well decks etc etc..
#5740, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202" In response to Reply # 0 Tue Apr-10-12 05:25 PMby GaryADevine
I cant stop reading your blog, its great.
I was wondering, and maybe someone else can answer too, see if i dont but the 100th anniversary model and i just buy the normal one do i still get decking, benches, photoeches, etc or do i need to buy all of them?