Not having a whole lot of luck painting the hull stripe. See attached photo for my cack-handed attempt (to be fair, the photo shows the worst bit).

What's the best technique for getting a nice, straight thin line in the correct place? Frog tape?

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

Introducing, yellow self-adhesive 'Trimline'.

A few of us have used this method in the past and with excellent results. It doesn't require any painting. No painting, no bleed, no problem!

Morten has used this method a number of times and you can see his work in the finished models gallery, just so you have an idea of how it works and how it looks!



http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&item=916

Regards,

Luke McHugh

There is also the Woodland Scenes dry transfer yellow stripe decals. I found some recently and will make a waterslide copy of them for Britannic.

>Introducing, yellow self-adhesive 'Trimline'.
>
>A few of us have used this method in the past and with
>excellent results. It doesn't require any painting. No
>painting, no bleed, no problem!
>
>Morten has used this method a number of times and you can see
>his work in the finished models gallery, just so you have an
>idea of how it works and how it looks!
>
>
>
>http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&item=916
>
>
Does anyone know where I could obtain this in the states,Thanks for any help. Regards,Bob

>>Introducing, yellow self-adhesive 'Trimline'.
>>
>>A few of us have used this method in the past and with
>>excellent results. It doesn't require any painting. No
>>painting, no bleed, no problem!
>>
>>Morten has used this method a number of times and you can
>see
>>his work in the finished models gallery, just so you have an
>>idea of how it works and how it looks!
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&item=916
>>
>>
>Does anyone know where I could obtain this in the
>states,Thanks for any help. Regards,Bob

eBay, I found a ton of it on there, maybe I'm late in posting though (first post - hi all, on the bench Minicraft 1/350 & Toms Deluxe PE, never used PE before also wanting to light her up with f/o and led's)

>Introducing, yellow self-adhesive 'Trimline'.
>
>A few of us have used this method in the past and with
>excellent results. It doesn't require any painting. No
>painting, no bleed, no problem!
>
>Morten has used this method a number of times and you can see
>his work in the finished models gallery, just so you have an
>idea of how it works and how it looks!
>
>
>
>http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&item=916
>
>


Ok, noob question, trimline in hand, what size?!

Roy

There are several methods, here is one
When masking a stripe for painting, use 3M fineline tape, most automotive suppliers have it. It is blue plastic and conforms to surfaces with humps and recesses very well. Tower Hobbies carries the same tape, called EZ Mask, only it's red and has their name on it, and it's way cheaper. With yellow, always use a white basecoat, then the yellow, it will only take one or two coats over the white. And here is a little trick I learned painting stripes on 1/1 scale Aircraft. The first color you paint where the stripe is going to go should be the same as the base color ie. the hull is black, paint your first coat black, let it dry. Then paint it white, then yellow. Because your first coat was black and the hull is black, most of any bleeding under the tape will be black and not so noticeable. If you can't get your hands on fineline tape, cut masking tape in half lengthwise with a straight edge on a clean piece of glass, (I use my windows). Use the cut edge for masking, it gives a much cleaner edge. On a roll of tape the edge picks up dust and lint and that makes for a lot of bleeding, hence the clean cut method. Whether brushing or airbrushing, use light coats to reduce bleed. The thicker the coat the more bleeding, so by keeping it light and dry between coats, you get a better result.

I does take patience, however someone once said "patience is a virtue", obviously they had no children!

Regards,
Jeff D.

Thanks for the advice guys!

I had done a bit of reading up elsewhere on other techniques, just interested what works for those making the 1:350 Titanic model. Out of interest, mine is the Academy/Minicraft version.

Plan A is to get the Scotch Fineline tape- I'll probably use the 0.79mm stuff.

If that doesn't work, then I'll use some of the Trimline Self Adhesive Coach Line tape. Thanks for that pointer!

I will keep this thread updated with progress.

Jeff, just to confirm:

The first color you paint where the stripe is going to go should be the same as the base color ie. the hull is black, paint your first coat black, let it dry. Then paint it white, then yellow.

Do you mean:

1. Paint the whole hull structure black
2. Mask below the top of the hull and paint the exposed area white
3. Mask the trim line on the join between the two and then paint the exposed bit yellow

Is that correct?

I think painting is definitely the way to go. I painted the hull black then taped off the lower bit, and painted the top white including where the sheer stripe was to be. I then laid down a strip of tape very carefully and consistently above the first piece. I now had a very small gap which I hand painted yellow. (no airbrush yet...)

I had a couple spots that bled a little but the overall effect turned out well. I used plain old blue painters tape. All I can say is take your time masking. Especially those rivets! I recommend finding a "tool", something with a fine rounded point, to help you adhere the tape around obstacles. I did this two or three times to ensure a clean line, the last time was RIGHT before I painted. I've noticed after some time the tape will begin to lift from the surface slightly.

Then I would let it dry COMPLETELY, that way if there is any bleeding, it can more easily be "chipped" or scraped away with a fine blade versus smearing moist paint. Now that I think of it, if you didn't mind shelling out the dough for a whole can of yellow spray paint, two light coats would really work well.....Why didn't I think of that before!?

Best of luck to you! This can be a hair pulling experience!

Dane

That was an example, here is the sequence for Titanic; you can paint the whole hull flat black, then mask for the white top sides, masking from where the bottom of the yellow trim line will go. Paint flat black first, let dry. Then paint the top sides flat white, let dry. Mask off the white top sides leaving the area where the yellow trim line will go unmasked, you should have a white area the size of the yellow stripe. Before you paint yellow, paint a coat of flat white along the upper edge of where the stripe will go, (the bottom edge will already have been sealed with the black. Paint the yellow, you will notice how much easier it is to get a nice even yellow. Use the same idea for the red, mask for the red, apply a coat of flat black, let dry, then apply the red. You should have much cleaner lines. Just make sure to use the paint in light coats.

Have fun!

Jeff D.

I used Tamiya masking tape,cut into lengths,and burnished down hard on every bump,plate & variation in the hull then applied the 'gold' with a fine 000 brush,I literally 'flooded' the space between the lengths of tape with it.Upon removing the tape I was quite chuffed at the results
nary a under tape bleed to be had & the alignment with the black/white separation & sheer line was spot on too.

Teva

Moonbase Alpha....
Massive Nuclear Explosion...
Moon Torn Out of Earth Orbit....
Hurled Into Outer Space....

This Is The Way It Will Be....
This Is The Way It Was...

SPACE:1999