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Top The TRMA Discussion Forum topic #55740
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Subject: "Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350" Previous topic | Next topic
NickThu Jan-18-18 09:49 AM
Member since Jan 14th 2018
3 posts
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#55740, "Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"


          

I have been reading this website for some time now but have never posted before. I am truly in awe of the depth of knowledge found here!

I have been having a really hard time painting the hull on the Minicraft 1:350 Titanic. Specifically, getting clean lines between the different portions proved to be a nightmare. No matter what tape I used (and I think I tried them all, from blue delicate surfaces painters tape to post-it notes) I ended up having the paint pulled off the hull when I removed the tape. I had to hold the non-sticky side of the post-it against the hull to get a good, crisp line. I cleaned the hull before applying a primer coat and then the finish coats. I am using Model Master acrylics (Revell for the antifouling) and an airbrush.

Now I am trying the hull stripe and am not sure what to do. Instead of masking, I gave the Minicraft decals a try. I sprayed a clear gloss coat and worked the decals a week later, using the Model Master versions of Microset and Microsol. I am not satisfied with the results and am hoping to get some ideas on where to go next, meaning try again with decals (I have to get a replacement set anyway since some of the other hull decals disintegrated when I tried to apply them) or go some other route. Here are my specific questions:

First, the stripe decals as applied have a shiny, almost semi-gloss appearance. Would that be muted on application of a clear flat coat?

Second, have there been any reports of the stripe decals coming off over time? I imagine the clear flat coat that would go over the decal would protect them, but I do not want to do this again!

Finally, if I do try to remove the decals paint the stripe on, I need to figure out what to do about the gloss coat I already applied. Can I paint on it directly? After sanding with fine grit paper? Do I spray a flat clear coat before painting? Do I need to remove the gloss coat?

I tried the dry transfer method before doing the gloss coat, but they did not adhere properly and flaked off.

If anyone has any other ideas, I am interested. I have searched the forum and think I have considered all the options. I think the decals are still my best bet and painting a rather distant second, given my skill set. If I could get better results masking that would make a great difference, but if even weak post-it glue pulls up the paint I think that will just lead to more frustration.

I should mention that I am not that experienced with modeling. My last model was this very one some 20 years ago. But I am determined and a perfectionist, and am willing to work at this until I get it right. Or until my wife loses her patience with me.

Thank you in advance,
Nick S.

  

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Replies to this topic
RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, lauraoonaeemeli, Jan 19th 2018, #1
RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, Art Braunschweiger, Jan 21st 2018, #2
RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, Nick, Jan 23rd 2018, #3
      RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, Art Braunschweiger, Jan 23rd 2018, #4
           RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, bpread, Jan 24th 2018, #5
RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350, Nick, Feb 07th 2018, #6

lauraoonaeemeliFri Jan-19-18 03:39 AM
Member since Feb 27th 2015
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#55743, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Hi. I'm not experienced modeler either having done only 1/400 academy Titanic and currently working with 1/700 Olympic from revell. I don't know which way is considered to be the "correct" way but I've removed the masking tape immediately after painting. Perhaps that way your paint will not get of while removing the tape. What I've also done is that I've used a very sharp knife to carefully scratch of the paint which have leaked into wrong places. It has worked surprisingly well. Remember also that painting is something you shouldn't be afraid of, because you can always put a new layer of paint if you have "messed up" something.

Good luck with the build and welcome to the forum!

Sauli Palokangas

  

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Art BraunschweigerSun Jan-21-18 07:09 PM
Member since Nov 21st 2004
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#55751, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 0


  

          

Hi Nick -

Sorry to hear that you're struggling at such an early stage. To address your issues in reverse order -

Yes, flat lacquer spray (Dulcote) will remove the gloss from decals.

As to your paint not adhering - the details you provided would seem to rule out two of the most likely causes, but I will still ask: you say you cleaned the hull first. Was that with a plastic prep solution or rubbing alcohol? No chance of any residue of any kind?

You say you also tried various types of tape. That would seem to rule out the wrong kind of tape.

I have no experience at all with acrylics, but I've always been skeptical of their ability to bond to styrene plastic - truly bond, as opposed to simply coating. Paint thinner for oil-based paints will "melt" the plastic if applied directly, and oil-based paints, being thinned heavily, will therefore, to my mind, bond directly to the plastic. My tape gripped the painted area of the hull pretty tightly (I am talking about 3/4" wide blue painter's tape) and I had to peel it up with some force, yet no paint came up. I did not have to touch up a single spot. I have to wonder how it would be possible for acrylic paint to bond to the plastic as well, considering water (the base for acrylics) will not act as a solvent for plastic in the least.

I am neither a chemist nor a paint expert (except for applying it to a Titanic model with a fair amount of success.) I think you need someone who's experienced with acrylics to offer their thoughts.

Regards (and good luck)

Art Braunschweiger

  

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NickTue Jan-23-18 02:26 PM
Member since Jan 14th 2018
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#55760, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 2


          

Thank you both for your replies. I cleaned the hull but not with rubbing alcohol or a plastic preparation solution, so that might be my problem. I will persevere by trying painting the stripe and seeing how it comes out. I am persistent and will get it right!

Nick

  

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Art BraunschweigerTue Jan-23-18 08:51 PM
Member since Nov 21st 2004
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#55763, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 3


  

          

One thing to keep in mind is that your skin will transfer a lot of oil to the plastic. I wore thin white cotton gloves after the hull was cleaned and prepped. I suppose latex gloves would work just as well.

Art

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

  

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bpreadWed Jan-24-18 11:42 AM
Member since Sep 29th 2003
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#55764, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 4


          

I agree with Art. I've tried acrylics and I hated the results. I wouldn't paint any model with anything but solvent based enamels. My all-time favorite paint was Floquil's Railroad Colors which had a xylene based solvent. Xylene was "hot" but one or maybe two light coats were all it took for complete coverage. Model Master solvent based enamels became my favorite after Floquil's discontinued their use of xylene.
Regards
Bob Read

  

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NickWed Feb-07-18 06:42 PM
Member since Jan 14th 2018
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#55819, "RE: Help with Minicraft Titanic 1:350"
In response to Reply # 0
Wed Feb-07-18 06:46 PMby Nick

          

Thank you all for the comments. I took Sauli's advice and
tried painting, and I am very happy with the results. It
doesn't live up to some of what I've seen here, but I am
declaring victory and moving on. (I haven't applied the
gloss-coat to the re-painted areas, so that is why the finish
looks uneven.) Thank you all again!

Nick

Images:

https://imgur.com/a/oZDbq

  

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Titanic artwork at top of page is owned and copyright of Stuart Williamson and is used with permission.