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Subject: "Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202" Previous topic | Next topic
adamskiiMon Mar-12-12 01:08 PM
Member since Mar 12th 2012
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#5592, "Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"


          

Hello everyone.

This is something I have been planning for about 3 years. I will be posting my build log here so i hope you can help me out with feedback and criticism where warranted. I am currently posting on another forum but am receiveing little to no feedback and although I am familiar with that particular organisation, I feel that the military orientation to the page may make a Titanic build log somewhat benign.

this is a simple preliminary post to introduce myself and to state my objectives. I am an accomplished diorama and armour model builder, but have very limited shipbuilding experience. I have very limited knowledge of the terms used but am willing to learn to use the right names for various things where needed.

Why I chose the Academy kit ?

I probably would not of with the aid of hindsight but I spent my money and decided to stick it through. Besides I am finding it very difficult to find another complete build log of this particular kit online so maybe an opportunity to discover what this kit has to offer for others to use aswell? I bought the Academy kit #1458 3 years ago when I was weekend manager of a hobby shop, and before I left I got it because I liked the eye candy of the box art, and nothing else was like it in the shop. After buying it I got advanced modellers syndrome again and instantly needed photo etch hand rails. From there I bought the complete set of 1/400 Toms PE sets for this kit. As I began assembly, however I realised I was in over my head, had not planned enough how I was going to do this build, and certainly began making mistakes. The kit was shelved "for later".

Fast forward to christmas this year and I saw the anniversary kit for sale and just had to have it with all that PE and the timber decks.. and now I have it. I now know of many issues with this kit, and will happily blog my way through them for your benefit.

What I did lack and it was very apparent was quality reference material, so I have spent much time reading and buying books for thsi project. The two primary reference books that have been just outstanding have been the "Titanic in photographs" (from this website), and Peter Davies-garners Handbook on model building the Titanic. Other books include various titles but none as professional as these two.

Where I am at now.

Actually I am at work right now, but be home soon (post some WIP pictures)I have already put a few hours into this kit and started making corrections/ modifications. Pictures to follow soon. I am struggling with the well decks and some issues there but more on that later.

Lastly,

If anyone is interested in what sort of work I normally do, here are some links ( I hope I post them correctly)

Current blog(these pics and details will transfer to here shortly)
http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=188555&page=1

and my previous diorama work(pic's towards bottom of page)
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=170525&ord=&page=17

Regards

Adam

  

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Replies to this topic
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, stevanovitch, Mar 12th 2012, #1
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Mar 12th 2012, #2
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Jonathan, Mar 12th 2012, #3
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Mar 12th 2012, #4
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, DaveC, Jan 27th 2013, #87
      RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, MikeDenny, Apr 08th 2014, #88
Well decks Continued, adamskii, Mar 13th 2012, #5
RE: Well decks Continued, timmcockburn, Mar 13th 2012, #6
RE: Well decks Continued, Jeff.M, Mar 13th 2012, #7
RE: Well decks Continued, adamskii, Mar 14th 2012, #8
RE: Well decks Continued, adamskii, Mar 17th 2012, #9
      RE: Well decks Continued, Jonathan, Mar 17th 2012, #10
      RE: Well decks Continued, adamskii, Mar 18th 2012, #12
      RE: Well decks Continued, Jeff.M, Mar 17th 2012, #11
           RE: Well decks Continued, adamskii, Mar 18th 2012, #13
hull stripe , adamskii, Mar 18th 2012, #14
RE: hull stripe , William B. Barney, Mar 18th 2012, #15
RE: hull stripe , stevee28, Mar 18th 2012, #16
      RE: hull stripe , adamskii, Mar 19th 2012, #17
RE: hull stripe , sharktrainer, Mar 19th 2012, #19
      RE: hull stripe , adamskii, Mar 19th 2012, #20
a few noted kit corrections, adamskii, Mar 19th 2012, #18
RE: a few noted kit corrections, stevanovitch, Mar 21st 2012, #21
RE: a few noted kit corrections, adamskii, Mar 21st 2012, #22
RE: a few noted kit corrections, adamskii, Mar 21st 2012, #23
update, adamskii, Mar 25th 2012, #24
RE: update, stevanovitch, Mar 25th 2012, #25
RE: update, adamskii, Mar 25th 2012, #26
more updates, adamskii, Mar 29th 2012, #27
      RE: more updates, Art Braunschweiger, Mar 30th 2012, #28
      RE: more updates, adamskii, Mar 30th 2012, #29
           RE: more updates, Art Braunschweiger, Mar 30th 2012, #30
           RE: more updates, Morten Jensen, Mar 30th 2012, #31
           RE: more updates, sharktrainer, Mar 30th 2012, #33
      RE: more updates, stevanovitch, Mar 30th 2012, #32
           more updates, adamskii, Mar 31st 2012, #34
                RE: more updates, Art Braunschweiger, Mar 31st 2012, #35
                     RE: more updates, Morten Jensen, Apr 01st 2012, #36
                     RE: more updates, adamskii, Apr 01st 2012, #37
                          the infamous white star buff - my trials, adamskii, Apr 02nd 2012, #38
                               RE: the infamous white star buff - my trials, Art Braunschweiger, Apr 03rd 2012, #39
                               funnels and watertank, adamskii, Apr 03rd 2012, #40
                                    RE: funnels and watertank, Art Braunschweiger, Apr 04th 2012, #41
                                    Rafter cross-section, Ralph Currell, Apr 04th 2012, #43
                                         RE: Rafter cross-section, bpread, Apr 06th 2012, #45
                                              RE: Rafter cross-section, Ralph Currell, Apr 06th 2012, #46
                                    RE: funnels and watertank, stevanovitch, Apr 06th 2012, #44
                               RE: the infamous white star buff - my trials, MLOGAN, Apr 04th 2012, #42
update deck houses and funnel stays, adamskii, Apr 07th 2012, #47
RE: update deck houses and funnel stays, Jeff.M, Apr 08th 2012, #48
RE: update deck houses and funnel stays, stevanovitch, Apr 09th 2012, #49
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, GaryADevine, Apr 10th 2012, #50
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Apr 10th 2012, #51
some more updates , adamskii, Apr 11th 2012, #52
      RE: some more updates , adamskii, Apr 12th 2012, #53
           RE: some more updates , Art Braunschweiger, Apr 12th 2012, #54
           RE: some more updates , adamskii, Apr 13th 2012, #56
                RE: some more updates , bpread, Apr 13th 2012, #57
                     RE: some more updates , adamskii, Apr 13th 2012, #58
                          RE: some more updates , lcurchoe, Apr 13th 2012, #59
                          RE: some more updates , lcurchoe, Apr 13th 2012, #60
           RE: some more updates , lcurchoe, Apr 12th 2012, #55
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, cbcdesign, Apr 15th 2012, #61
lifeboat davits and other updates, adamskii, Apr 15th 2012, #62
      RE: lifeboat davits and other updates, Art Braunschweiger, Apr 15th 2012, #63
      RE: lifeboat davits and other updates, Matt OBrien, Apr 15th 2012, #64
           RE: lifeboat davits and other updates, stevanovitch, Apr 16th 2012, #66
                RE: lifeboat davits and other updates, adamskii, Apr 16th 2012, #67
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Spellbinder99, May 06th 2012, #82
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Jimbo in Thailand, Apr 16th 2012, #65
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Apr 16th 2012, #68
      RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, bflynn2159, Apr 16th 2012, #69
           RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Apr 16th 2012, #70
                RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, stugilmour, Apr 19th 2012, #71
                     RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Apr 19th 2012, #72
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, Apr 23rd 2012, #73
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, stevanovitch, Apr 23rd 2012, #74
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Marco Tulner, Apr 24th 2012, #75
      RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Art Braunschweiger, Apr 24th 2012, #76
           RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Marco Tulner, Apr 25th 2012, #77
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, May 05th 2012, #78
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Matt OBrien, May 05th 2012, #
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Matt OBrien, May 05th 2012, #79
      RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Matt OBrien, May 05th 2012, #80
           RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, mauretania1906, May 06th 2012, #81
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Nautibear, Feb 07th 2015, #89
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, bazer, May 07th 2012, #83
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, adamskii, May 07th 2012, #84
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, Francois.peyper, May 08th 2012, #85
RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202, bazer1, May 17th 2012, #86

stevanovitchMon Mar-12-12 02:27 PM
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#5594, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Hi Adam

I too have been working on the Academy anniversary model for the past couple of months. I`m very much looking forward to seeing how yours is coming along.

As you know yourself, there are certainly some "issues" regarding this model, but working around them are part of the fun of modelling.

Good luck with yours, hopefully I`ll be posting some pics of mine soon.

Steve

  

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adamskiiMon Mar-12-12 03:54 PM
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#5599, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0
Mon Mar-12-12 04:02 PMby adamskii

          

Thanks for the well wishes.

SO getting into the promised pics, I wont waste too much time on backstory , just be aware that I have two kits , the old one and the AE kit, and am building 1 Titanic with the older one as spare parts backup and trial assembly parts..

In the first pic I have shown the first mod - sanding off the raised letters of Titanic on the bow. The keel at the front is quite wront when compared to pictures - it just rounds out to flat fromthe front, and doesnt have the gradual kick from flat and this means several of t he strakes are misalaigned. most strakes on this kit areterribly misaligned but that is beyond my skills to fix. The anchor housing is also too far back and should not be under the 1st porthole, but fore of it some way (about 6 mm forward)



Also I noted that the kit only had 15 portholes in the balwark on the fo'c'sle (?) and the photos show there should be 16. So I found the offending porthole on drilled them where they should be. The same for the stern.






Another mod was cutting off the rails that are part of the moulded balwark for the poop dec k and fo'c'sle plus sanding flush ready for PE Rails later






you can see where the old wrong porthole that has not been filled yet was..


the biggest mod so far is the realisation there are some issues with the well decks. Firstly, the fore well deck is horizontal and not parralel with the keel line - so it has an uneven balwark that reduces in height front to back - this will be rapaired but not just yet.



The more pressing issue that I have to fix is the missing areas under the poopdeck and fo'c'sle on the well decks. The academy kit has complete fiction of what his looks like and is just a poor lazy example of cost cutting production. SO using the plans In Peter Davies-Garner book which are almost exactly at scale,(1:386) I cut the holes where they should be, and will back fill them with styrene.



Thats a very quick catch up for this morning. I hope the html works! Theres loads of other pics I want to share but they can wait till later.

Adam

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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JonathanMon Mar-12-12 05:02 PM
Member since Oct 21st 2004
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#5600, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 2
Mon Mar-12-12 05:03 PMby Jonathan

  

          

Hello Adam

Welcome and thank you for the updates on the photo's. Over the past few weeks I have been toying over getting the deluxe Academy kit. Not bad considering I am a huge fan of the Minicraft 1:350. The 1:400 with the newer ingredients such as PE and wooden decks is very appealing. But, as you know yourself, the kit does have it flaws. Nothing major and with patience, the possibilities to alter.

(Adamski) as in flying saucer Adamski or UK 90s dance artist?

Jonathan

  

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adamskiiMon Mar-12-12 11:57 PM
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#5603, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 3


          

Thankyou for your comments. Adamskii as in silly sounding.. nothing deeper than that! This build I hope will enlighten those such as yourself to potential issues and amount opf work required (OR skill) to fix. I am most certainly going to try and fix what I think I can -but know i have limitations and some of the more aggresive issuess wont get touched.

Adam

  

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DaveCSun Jan-27-13 05:57 PM
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#6513, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 2
Mon Jan-28-13 10:08 PMby DaveC

          

Great model Adam!

Lot of time in there, hope I can complete mine. Your pictures help out allot, good as a guide!

Dave

  

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MikeDennyTue Apr-08-14 06:51 PM
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#7087, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 87


          

Has there been any update on this beautiful model?

  

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adamskiiTue Mar-13-12 12:10 AM
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#5604, "Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Quick update, took the pics of the holes i cut in the bulkheads of the welldecks to accomodate the missing areas. Will build out of styrene, its small area and shouldnt be a problem. The floor is only challenge as the veneer deck of course dows not allow for this mod, but there is enough scrap veneer on the matrix of the sheet to backfill.

Adam



  

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timmcockburnTue Mar-13-12 02:17 AM
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#5605, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 5


          

Good stuff. This was my second Titanic kit after the 1:570 and I was so excited by its size and detail I just threw it together. I'm a lot more patient these days. It's good to see a few people trying to get the very best out of it. I'd like to try it again with the skills I've picked up over the years. I wouldn't have know where to start modifying the well decks etc in those days. I'll be following with interest.

Tim

  

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Jeff.MTue Mar-13-12 03:12 PM
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#5608, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 5


          

Hey Adam,

Kudos to you for taking the time to fix the issues with the kit. I considered doing such with mine, but ultimately decided it was outside my abilities as a first time scale model maker.

Looks excellent so far, can't wait to see how she turns out.

Regards,

Jeff

  

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adamskiiWed Mar-14-12 09:06 AM
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#5609, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 5
Wed Mar-14-12 01:29 PMby adamskii

          

some pics of the interior "annex's"? to the well decks construction sequence.

drawn the wall plan on the underside of the deck - it is mirrored to the real plan as it is upside down

added some walls the height of the well deck bulkhead, also some doors where appropriate, the double doors I used a thick piece of styrene with scribe line in the middle


the aft welldeck annex has its new floor fitted, and the fore well deck walls have been installed


and lastly a couple views looking in from thetop - very hard to get a good camera angle. the fittings within will be either scavenged from the spare kit or scratchbuilt after the veneer is in and painting done



Interior details will be added after painting, deck veneer assembled. especially the crane posts. A good picture would be handy .. but thats the problem I guess ? lol

Adam

  

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adamskiiSat Mar-17-12 10:02 AM
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#5611, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 5


          

Bit of an update. Been rather busy but managed to start some good momentum happening.

Firstly, I have painted the well deck bulkheads and balwarks with the suggested colour. Amazing how many variations everyone has - but the better models seem top have a lighter colour than darker in the brown, and remembering to lighten the hue for scale consideration, I added about 25% white to the brown mix, and 5 % orange to tint it more like the Peter Davis-Garner colour. Not qute there but I am satisfied with it. Apparently this brown is also used on the masts. The deck details are otherwise painted with floquil weathered black - much more appropriate for the scale and less contrast than sharp straight black.







As you can see I also put some decking down. the trick is I painted the deck details first - that way when the veneer goes down you get that lovely clean crisp line. very tidy. I stuffed up the fo'c'sle stowage bay by not trimming enough stuff away as suggested in the blueprints, and was left having to make an alteration - but I can easily fix it and add the angled brackets later from photo etch.

The deck is an absolute joy and I am very pleased to see this in situi - I have really pushed hard to get this down early on just to indicate how it looks - especially when compared to the suggested humbrol colour on the plain deck (without veneer)





Also while waiting for the piant to dry I masked off the hull and did the anti fouling. Once again I used the reccomended floquil colour. However I did not spray it over the black, I first sprayed another coat of black to seal the masking (old radio control car body shell trick to stop bleeding) then when dry painted white primer, and lastly painted the reddish brown colour. By undercoating with white the red pops much better. Ther is very small waterline "line" along the hull to guide the mask - I followed that line. And by the way I did paint the hull black - its just painted satin black and will be dulled with a coat of dull coat or matt varnish very soon..



So of course lots of things to do to those 4 decks(2 x well decks, fo'c'sle and poop). And lots of issues to fix with the balwark inside the fore well deck, but as I said slowly building momentum.

Adam

  

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JonathanSat Mar-17-12 04:29 PM
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#5612, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 9


  

          

Adam

With the wooden decks inplace, how do such things like the bollard sets sit. Do they still sit with some height of the bollard base above the wooden decks, or do the decks now fit flush with the top of the bollard base with just the two bits looking as if they stick up out of the deck without a base.

Hope you understand what I mean by that.

Jonathan

  

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adamskiiSun Mar-18-12 07:16 AM
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#5614, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 10


          

>Adam
>
>With the wooden decks inplace, how do such things like the
>bollard sets sit. Do they still sit with some height of the
>bollard base above the wooden decks, or do the decks now fit
>flush with the top of the bollard base with just the two bits
>looking as if they stick up out of the deck without a base.
>
>Hope you understand what I mean by that.



Hello and thankyou for your question. The thickness of the veneer timber is about 0.75mm and about 30gsm of adhesive on the back = approx <1mm of deck. That does bring the timber up to the same level as the concrete plinths that the steam and electric winches sit on - they are almost flush , the concrete ever so slightly higher. The deck bollards (confusing name for me as I am used to calling something else a bollard) also have the same however the base does sit higher than the concrete and if I was to hazard how high the base only of the bollards sit above the deck it would be <0.5mm. However, I believe that the contrast of the deck to the bollard/ concrete and other details, has a sharp enough line that offers the impression of scale differential with height. In other words, looks proportional, especially at 1/400 scale.

I hope that makes sense and helps answer your question. My issue will be the waterways and the insides of the bulwarks. the timber , while being extraordinarily precise in the cutting of the holes for various details (the matrix), does have a less than 0.5mm lateral shift of some of the parts and in order to be even on both sides will have to trim one side or fill the other or hope that the railing when installed conceals any misalignment - to the naked eye its very hard to discern.

Adam

  

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Jeff.MSat Mar-17-12 09:34 PM
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#5613, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 9


          

Adam,

Does your kit not come with a P/E brass replacement for the plastic splash board fused to the deck?

Regards,

Jeff

  

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adamskiiSun Mar-18-12 07:20 AM
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#5615, "RE: Well decks Continued"
In response to Reply # 11


          

>Adam,
>
>Does your kit not come with a P/E brass replacement for the
>plastic splash board fused to the deck?
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff

thanks for the question Jeff, yes it does copme with PE splash boards BUT two things..

1 - although I marked it on my instructions to remove it I used the wrong instructions and forgot..(2 sets of instructions is bad idea )

2 - the PE ones are missing the little braces that go behind the splash board thus making it annoyingly wrong. Also I must admit I like the thicker plastic ones..

That said, Because I forgot, and was about to install the decks, I had to cut the deck out where ther spalshboard is - some minor surgery, but looks ok now. bit fiddley.

I was planning on mentioning/ detailing this when I start adding the details to the deck.

Adam

  

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adamskiiSun Mar-18-12 08:09 AM
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#5616, "hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 0


          

managed to mask off and paint the hull stripe as mentioned earlier. Using the humbrol colour from the guide. Nice colour.

I really am the worst type of modeller- very impatient! I attached one of the sides with tape just for looks.. Had no bleed at all, but had about 2 x 5mm "kinks" in the line where masking tape had to turn a corner on the stern, but a quick scrape with the knife cleaned that up. ALso gave hull first coats of dull coat, and started to buff some shadow into the plating.

Adam







  

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William B. BarneySun Mar-18-12 09:39 AM
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#5617, "RE: hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 14


  

          


Adam,

It look really neat and good job to do on the painting with yellow stripe! Now you are not the worst modeler anymore! But, I seen other "master modeler" have been used the yellow tape to used as hull stripe!! I can't believe they was used yellow tape than paint it as good as your model. Again, Your model are get really good and forward to see your model to be finished!

Regards,

William


DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES. DEAD SHIPS, HOWEVER, DO!

  

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stevee28Sun Mar-18-12 03:29 PM
Member since Jul 04th 2011
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#5618, "RE: hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 15


          

Hello Adam,

I saw that you have cut the forecastle and the quarterdeck as
Indeed, on these there are no corners. Myself having to buy the same model as you, I'm trying to do and I have the same problems. Could I know what material was thanks to you your cut pieces of plastic pieces and so by what means you have assembled in order to achieve these corners that do not appear on the artwork?

Thank you in advance for your answer.
Steve Lebourg

  

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adamskiiMon Mar-19-12 05:27 AM
Member since Mar 12th 2012
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#5619, "RE: hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 16


          

>Hello Adam,
>
>I saw that you have cut the forecastle and the quarterdeck as
>Indeed, on these there are no corners. Myself having to buy
>the same model as you, I'm trying to do and I have the same
>problems. Could I know what material was thanks to you your
>cut pieces of plastic pieces and so by what means you have
>assembled in order to achieve these corners that do not appear
>on the artwork?
>
>Thank you in advance for your answer.
>Steve Lebourg

Hello Steve and thanks for the question.

I think you mean the annex's under the poopdeck and the for'c'sle deck/forecastle deck - these are the entrances to the 3rd class areas. May I ask if you read the section of this blog on how I approached that problem ? I detailed as best I could (including materials)in pictures how I have added these sections (or "corners" as you call it). Please have a look at the posts entitled "well decks continued".

If this is not enough information or I have it wrong, I have used the deck drawings and pictures mostly from "RMS Titanic - A Modelmakers manual", by Peter Davies-Garner; which has exquisite drawings might I add. The material I have used to rebuild the corners is simply "Evergreen " brand sheet and strip styrene.

I really hope that helps in some way, please me again to clarify if I have misunderstood.

thanks muchly,

Adamskii!

  

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sharktrainerMon Mar-19-12 04:02 PM
Member since Oct 10th 2011
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#5626, "RE: hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 14


          

Hi Adam

Did you just mask and brush the yellow sheer line?

Its looks really well.

Ste Spenser

  

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adamskiiMon Mar-19-12 05:15 PM
Member since Mar 12th 2012
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#5628, "RE: hull stripe "
In response to Reply # 19


          

>Hi Adam
>
>Did you just mask and brush the yellow sheer line?
>
>Its looks really well.
>
>Ste Spenser

Hello Ste,

Yes masked, no brush, used airbrush. The hull stripe was masked with Tamiya tape. Carefully. It is approx 1.5mm high. It is masked in line with the rivets to keep it as straight as possible (for a curved line). To prevent bleed - first I airbrush the hull colour again (black) that way any bleed is unnoticeable and also bleed gaps "sealed". Then airbrush the yellow once the black was dry.

I hope that helps more clearly, thanks for the question and taking time to read my work.

Adam

  

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adamskiiMon Mar-19-12 10:17 AM
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#5620, "a few noted kit corrections"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Hello folks , today I wanted to touch on some of the kit corrections. I know its a bit out of step but the forum on researching models had a very interesting list of corrections for this kit and I spent a little time this evening looking at them.

Firstly - the wheel house wall in the kit is curved (interior wall) ( I probably should say bulkhead but wall sounds more natural) This will have to be scratchbuilt and the floor and roof modified to accept the change. ALso will have to surgically insert a fill piece of the timber floor there too.

Also in this pic can see that the two boat deck stairwell covers are actually covered and should be open with flat tops and an angled front. this is a more simple modification. noted on pic with a cross(s)


There was aslo a vent that needs to be moved on the boat deck. It sits out in no mans land but should be up against the wall. I have marked the shift on the pic. Also a small surgical patch of veneer will need to be made to conceal the pre cut deck.Fortunately there is lots of spare deck to choose from!



Lastly I painted the "Tom's" model works phot etch windows last night. never have I seen such a small and detailed fret of PE. Anyways I just had to try out in a inconspicuous wall some of the windows. This pic gives an idea of how small they are! more pics of the results later..



Adam

  

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stevanovitchWed Mar-21-12 02:48 PM
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#5640, "RE: a few noted kit corrections"
In response to Reply # 18
Wed Mar-21-12 03:27 PMby stevanovitch

          

Adamskii - I think you`re doing some excellent work here. Your airbrushed sheer stripe for instance, looks far better than a transfer. Your work is inspiring my own work (on the same model), thanks to your exacting methods.

I just hope you realise that, to some people on this site, working on the Academy model is, for one reason or another, nothing short of blasphemous; It isn`t the most accurate model in the world but then again, if the Minicraft model was so exact(even though it`s a fine model), we wouldn`t have so many people scratch building parts for it. C`est la vie!

keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing more.


Steve

  

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adamskiiWed Mar-21-12 08:35 PM
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#5643, "RE: a few noted kit corrections"
In response to Reply # 21


          

>Adamskii - I think you`re doing some excellent work here.
>Your airbrushed sheer stripe for instance, looks far better
>than a transfer. Your work is inspiring my own work (on the
>same model), thanks to your exacting methods.
>
>I just hope you realise that, to some people on this site,
>working on the Academy model is, for one reason or another,
>nothing short of blasphemous; It isn`t the most accurate model
>in the world but then again, if the Minicraft model was so
>exact(even though it`s a fine model), we wouldn`t have so many
>people scratch building parts for it. C`est la vie!
>
>keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing more.
>
>
>Steve

Thanks for the comments Steve. Regarding the Academy vs Minicraft statement, Im unsure if such model kit snobbery exists and while some my have a preference for one brand over another, I have no doubt that everone who participates in this site is professional enough and decicated enough to the standard of the website to allow any such nonsense to occur. Indeed I have not seen any untoward comments, and relish the opportunity to do the very best Academy kit I can. I did think to myself I wish the two kits were in same scale as a combined kit would be very very interesting indeed! I havecertainly witnessed such snobbery in the armour modelling world where hierarchy of kits and even era definitely exist! ww2 german armour rules the roost and ther are many Dragon/DML fanboys.. While I like modern armour and am a Tamiya nut! go figure lol..

Adam

  

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adamskiiWed Mar-21-12 08:44 PM
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#5644, "RE: a few noted kit corrections"
In response to Reply # 18


          

OK more photo updates for today. I try to do at least 1 - 2 hours of practical modelling a day, but usually end up rsearching and reading reference instead ! lol.

Firstly the assembled windows from the previous post



Some other examples of Tom's photo etch windows.






The PE is incredibly small, and I suggest has been made to proper scale and to be as accurate as possible. unlike most custom pe kits that are made for a soecific kit so the pe fits, the Toms stuff is uncompromised and is simply generic for all 1/400 scale kits so doesnt account for the poor window design or errors on the Academy kit. Indeed most of the window frames seem to fall through the windows they are supposed to be on! also the silly part is all the windows are pretty much black/ dark behind on an unlit model so only the frame is visible and not the detail within the frame.

I did paint some frames - I masked and painted the fore bulkhead windows of b deck As the photo etch didnt look right.





compare that to the first effort done with pen from the trial kit ..



Lastly, I also shaved some of the ribs under A deck as they foul the fit with the walls underneath.



Adam

  

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adamskiiSun Mar-25-12 06:59 AM
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#5653, "update"
In response to Reply # 0
Sun Mar-25-12 07:32 AMby adamskii

          

Hello folks - sorry for bouncing around in the thread there, I see some prefer to have the posts sequential so will continue in that method from now.

Anyways reasonable sized update. Havent done so for a few days now and have been working very hard at getting the "shell" ready for all that deck Acne.

Painted the canvas covers of the cargo hatches. WIll fabricate the fordeck cargo hatch very soon.



put the two thermo tanks in the annex under the aft welldeck



started on the upper decks. ALOT of photo etch with the windows and alot of modifying to get them to fit. However one of the best things about the Academy kits update is the photo etch sheet includes the boiler casing roof tops for the deck houses. These PE pieces include the ribbing detail, but most importantly the stokehold vents and the Fidley vents. Also they make painting a bit simpler. Justr alot of work masking. I have started weathering for light scale (shadow and highlight)

here are two of the boiler casing roofs



and installed



As mentioned in previous post, scratchbuilt the A deck bulkhead here are the windows.



some of the other photo etch windows installed.





Also have managed to install 99% of the timber decking - the two expansion joints need to be installed yet. The Academy Anniversary kit is missing the timber for the rearmost deckhouse with the very small cubic room above it , and the two 1/4 round wings on it. (I have no idea what this is called). Either way Academy beieve it's roof to be white, as do some other modellers, but the more "researched" models have it timbered so I planked it aswell. I also planked the wheel house with the straight wall instead of the curved one (scratchbuilt).

Anyways some pics.





alot of tidying up work to be done here





Painting the boiler casing rooftops is a detective puzzle for sure! the TRMA guide is simply brilliant and solves much. However funnel no 4 has a two part colour and where the line goes between them is hard to tell in plan. Also the 1/48 Peter Davies-Garner model has funnel no 3 rooftop with timber decking. The TRMA diagram has light grey on the starport wing. I went with the light grey. Another problem with either me, the Academy kit, or the information is the fidley vents. As mentioned above the Academy kit has those wonderfull PE boiler casing tops, but, only 3.. there are 4 funnels, so which one misses out? according to the instructions the are installed on funnel 2 3 and 4. Problem is, If I understanbd correctly, that because number 4 was a dummy, it probably shouldnt have fidley vents or stokehold vents. PLEASE correct me if I have that wrong - it is difficult to find exactly what I want and everyone is doing different stuff on theoir models. Once again Peter's 1/48 has no evidence of fidley vents on no.4 as shown in the colour pics of his book. That makes sense in no 4 is a dummy. But then Academy provide individual vents for funnel no.1. I think someone messed up the Academy instructions and you should install the no. 4 photo etch part on funnel no.1 and not install any fidley vents on No.4 casing.

Here's the pics anyways..





note the beautiful PE glass dome cover..



A close up of the 3rd anchor. I like the photo etch deck grills.



And I am very happy because I finally had my limited edition print framed and is hung on the Family room wall. It is by Barry Spicer, and is limited to 1523 - the number of people who died (at the time of the painting - I know that number changes often!) I have number 145. It is massive - about 120cm wide by 90cm high! not including the frame or matt.



Adam

  

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stevanovitchSun Mar-25-12 01:39 PM
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#5656, "RE: update"
In response to Reply # 24


          

Adam, It looks to me that you have fitted PE part number 99 on the wrong funnel deckhouse roof. I`m fairly sure it should have been fitted to No 1 funnel deckhouse roof instead. There are no fidley grates on No4 funnel deckhouse roof, and you will see that the vent ducts (PE part numbers 103 & 104 on the Academy kit) you have yet to fit will obscure the grates and hatch covers you mistakenly added to No 4.

As you say, the instructions that come with the Academy kit are very confusing, I think it might be easier to learn Mandarin Chinese than make sense of their Photo Etch plans!

One more thing - you should have cut off the small "fins" at either side of the front of funnel deckhouse No 4. These are to be replaced with PE railing part numbers 42a and 43a.

Keep up the good work Adam, it`s still coming along nicely.

Regards

Steve

  

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adamskiiSun Mar-25-12 03:55 PM
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#5657, "RE: update"
In response to Reply # 25


          

>Adam, It looks to me that you have fitted PE part number 99
>on the wrong funnel deckhouse roof. I`m fairly sure it should
>have been fitted to No 1 funnel deckhouse roof instead. There
>are no fidley grates on No4 funnel deckhouse roof, and you
>will see that the vent ducts (PE part numbers 103 & 104 on the
>Academy kit) you have yet to fit will obscure the grates and
>hatch covers you mistakenly added to No 4.
>
>As you say, the instructions that come with the Academy kit
>are very confusing, I think it might be easier to learn
>Mandarin Chinese than make sense of their Photo Etch plans!
>
>One more thing - you should have cut off the small "fins" at
>either side of the front of funnel deckhouse No 4. These are
>to be replaced with PE railing part numbers 42a and 43a.
>
>Keep up the good work Adam, it`s still coming along nicely.
>
>Regards
>
>Steve

Thanks for the comments Steve. I knew the instructions were wrong - should of gone with my gut instinct and placed part 99 on front funnel. Fortunately I use superglue sparingly - the PE was lifting at the slightest touch, so will change that up tonight. Also the wings on the deckhouse are a very easy fix - I wasnt sure about them wither - but once again the instructions do not include removing them. Is always a challenge when you cant trust the instructions - especially updates corrected ones @ that !

Adam

PS - lotsof stuff to tidy up on that model - eg the yellow line I know does not go on top of the bulwark wall in the well decks - will fix that up later when Less chance of me marking the white. Adam

  

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adamskiiThu Mar-29-12 11:55 PM
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#5683, "more updates"
In response to Reply # 24
Thu Mar-29-12 11:59 PMby adamskii

          

Hi again, been a while since updating. I prefer to do it daily but low traffic might as well do it less frequent with larger info packets.

So I switched the abovementioned photo etch funnel housing issues around. SImple fix but annoying. I have also started adding some deck acne and problem solving some other issues.

I like to build tanks and armoured vehicles primarily, and this is very different - usually I build the box/hull and then add the details. THEN paint at the very end. Here is paint as you go and no solid box to build upon. I guess thats why I want the hull and decks glued together sooner than later so I can add my details to the solid box that is the hull. ALso I dont like how flexible the top deck is and if I add the rigging, and it flex's it might adjust rigging tensions..

So Im out of sequence.

BY the way of anyone has a spare copy of Toms Titanic detail set instruction I be much obliged if they could email them to me - I have lost mine and am guessing much with some of the parts..

So some pics.







an attempt at one of the benches - and the hole in the deck where the machinery was positioned incorrectly (yet to be patched)



note the size difference between Toms benches and Academy ones at apparently the same scale...



Some cranes...



and the foredeck. I scratched the steam lines, have yet to add the valve handles, and paint the capstains etc etc... lots work yet and lots missing details to be scratched...





Thats all for now , more to follow later.,


PS i bought the Titanic owners workshop manual from haynes - OMG its brilliant - had more valuable information in it than pretty much any other book I own so far (until I get TTSM pt 1 and 2) I also goit the 101 fact you thought you knew about Titanic, and am currently losing much sleep reading that fascinating book - excellent value for money!

Adam

  

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Art BraunschweigerFri Mar-30-12 07:30 AM
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#5684, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 27


  

          

Adam,

this is going to be a superb model by the time you get done. Easily a candidate for the Finished Models gallery, I think.

One thing that we're seeing more and more of here, as with your model, is a trend toward better research by the modeler as to proper paint colors and key modifications for accuracy. On your model, for example, it's obvious that you took the time to go through the Paint Reference on this site. Your hatch covers just look like canvas because you took the time to get that detail right. Same thing with your roof colors and such. And it goes without saying that the wooden decks, neatly applied, are worth their weight in gold.

I do have one suggestion with regard to the latter. See if you can lightly stain the planks between the chain races on the Fo'c'stle Deck to simulate the teak planking at that location. Ideally the planks should be wider here, but of course you can't change them at this stage. It goes without saying that you should experiment first on scrap pieces until you get the shade right, and are confident of applying the stain uniformly across the entire surface - otherwise the visual effect will be worse than doing nothing. I would use a very diluted stain; perhaps even a heavily thinned paint; if you attempt to use full-strenght stain directly, I'm afraid the wood will just absorb it too quickly to yield an even coloring - especially since you're working within confined borders and can't apply the stain across a wide area with a single continuous brush stroke.

I see you're moving one vent to its correct location -- there's another that needs to be moved, if you're so inclined. See the photo below. Also, depending on how much corrective work you want to go through at this stage, the notches in the raised roof on either side only existed on Olympic - these gaps were decked over on Titanic (although the alcoves beneath remained). The vents at these locations were also positioned directly over these gaps, by the way.





Should you choose not to make these corrections, it's certainly understandable, as you need to assess whether the quality of your fixes will be sufficiently undetectable.


Regards

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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adamskiiFri Mar-30-12 09:35 AM
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#5685, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 28


          

Thankyou for your comments Art. I am quite motivated by them to be even more dilligent - I cannot believe I did not translate what I was seeing in pictures and plans onto the model. I knew something was wrong with the alcoves - the Peter Davies;Garner model had me struggling to understand why the machinery on his compass platform deck looked so different to mine.

So heres some updates on fault Correction.

Firstly - the moving of the vent

first step is remove a large area of planking - the larger the area the less obvious there is a change made..



a suitable matching piece is cut from the left over matrix.



just for kicks this is how much was left over--- quite a bit.



I shave off the vent mounting plinth, and locate the inlay over the cut out



then square it off with sharp knife



to completely hide the seam, I will use pine wood putty in the joint, just like normal filler in plastic joins. Need to buy some putty tomorrow though.

The Alcove correction.

I will do the starport alcove first. It is the easier of the two to fix. (If I dont keep breaking the bench off) Can also see the first patch I did from the vent move- this patch is ordinary and unless the filler conceals it I will cut it out and try again.



I cutr back/ peel off some of the deck from area to be fixed - saving this peel for later. and then shave the vent plinth down to deck level.



cut out the alcove from being wedge shaped to being square - will make fitting a filler piece easier.



fit a filler block from sheet styrene strip. Sand it square.



I lay the old deck on some spare pieces and trim a new whole piece which includes the new ledge over the alcove.



lastly I paint the new section white, I should of airbrushed it foir consistency, but I brush painted it. Then fitted the new deck section.



In this pic you can see the 3 corrections ( 2 x deck replacements and the alcove repair). ALso I used the Toms photo etch fidley vents - they are much nice and better defined than the Academy ones - and I painted them black as it seems to be the colour commonly used oin the more researched models.



I also added some more detail to the fo'c'stle earlier, will attempt the stain tomorrow - I think simple matt varnish with a smoke tint will darken it slightly. First I want to verify what and where the black vent/grill is that goes between the chains is.



And added a couple more cranes to the poop and well decks aft.



So I hoppe those fixes are easy to understand- I really appreciate the heads up on those Art - It would of been harder to fix after the fittings and railings were added! I will do the port side alcove tomorrow. So many sub level details to add - all the little phot etch ladders for example. Definitely a time consuming project!

Thanks for reading folks.

Adam

  

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Art BraunschweigerFri Mar-30-12 09:53 AM
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#5686, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 29
Fri Mar-30-12 10:03 AMby Art Braunschweiger

  

          

Adam,

Nice mini-tutorial - I'm sure a few people will appreciate that. And great job on decking over the alcove - assembling parts in their predetermined locations is one thing, but doing what you did is the mark of a true scratchbuilder!

One suggestion: try cutting your patches with the deck planking sheet upside down. I suspect that the blade is making an indentation into the soft wood and causing the edges of your cuts to be rounded downwards slightly, which may cause your joints to be more visible than they need to be. You can't do that when you cut out the spot on the deck, but you can mitigate the problem by using a fresh blade right out of the box, and making your cuts in a series of several gradual cuts using a slicing motion, rather than pressing hard and making your cut all at once.

Also take the time to select your patch from an area of planking that will match best in terms of individual plank shades and hues.

Regards
Art

  

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Morten JensenFri Mar-30-12 10:57 AM
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#5687, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 30


  

          

As Art have already said; perfect job on the alcoves! Those are the details many would not notice, but really makes the difference. This will be a wonderful model when done.

Regards,

- Morten

  

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sharktrainerFri Mar-30-12 03:19 PM
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#5689, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 29


          

Hi Adam

Hats off to you fella!

Stephen

  

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stevanovitchFri Mar-30-12 11:58 AM
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#5688, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 27


          

Adam, I don`t need to tell you how much I`m enjoying this log.
Give me your email adress, I`ve just scanned in my Tom`s instruction sheets ready to send to you, but I can`t attach them using this sites` internal email system.

Regards
Steve

  

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adamskiiSat Mar-31-12 10:12 AM
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#5697, "more updates"
In response to Reply # 32


          

Hello again. Thank you all fort the comments they are much appreciated - the advice is very much welcomed and I will study each offering in depth.

Some pics to catchup on few more details I was working on today.

Firstly the port side alcove has now been planked



added some machinery to the vent on the roof (circled) this is not included in the kit but looks like a square duct that leaves a motor mounted behind the hook vent. I used a spare motor from my spare kit, and made the duct from styrene tube.



the vent with the motor attached that is starport side , aft of funnel no 1 is backwards. So I cut the top off and turned it around. here is the piece before and after alteration.



Also I noticed the steam pipe that runs from second class entrance roof to the false funnel rooftop, shouldnt.



I just cut it and turned it around using the precast curve as the elbow where I wanted it, and trimmed the remainder so it sat at the right height. You can also see the photo etch ducts from the dummy funnel in this pic.



Started to play with ladders for walls today aswell and once I have a better understanding which ones are black and which are white will add a pic of that progress.

I have added the expansion joints and some evidence can be seen above, but I believe I have some tidying to do yet.

thanks for reading,

Adam



  

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Art BraunschweigerSat Mar-31-12 04:55 PM
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#5699, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 34
Sat Mar-31-12 09:04 PMby Art Braunschweiger

  

          

Hold on, Adam, that "steam pipe" is the flue from the 1st Class Smoke Room, and it doesn't make a downward curve into the roof of the deckhouse - it runs into the after side of the No. 4 funnel, just to left of center.

I also noticed something else - the deck planking section you used for the roof of the after 2nd Class Entrance has two holes in it forward and aft of the elevator machinery housing room. I suspect when you put that planking piece into place you misaligned it by 90 degrees. The holes are for the vents that flank the machinery housing room on either side. You can easily fill in the holes, of course; just make sure you put the vents in the right places.

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

  

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Morten JensenSun Apr-01-12 02:25 AM
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#5700, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 35


  

          

Art - I think he have the roof just "right". As In the Minicraft model there is one hole for the misplaced pipe (you can see it running to this hole on one of his photos) and one for the rigging. If I remember correct, I do believe this piece on the Minicraft model have four holes in it.

- Morten

  

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adamskiiSun Apr-01-12 02:33 AM
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#5701, "RE: more updates"
In response to Reply # 35


          

>Hold on, Adam, that "steam pipe" is the flue from the 1st
>Class Smoke Room, and it doesn't make a downward curve into
>the roof of the deckhouse - it runs into the after side of the
>No. 4 funnel, just to left of center.
>
>I also noticed something else - the deck planking section you
>used for the roof of the after 2nd Class Entrance has two
>holes in it forward and aft of the elevator machinery housing
>room. I suspect when you put that planking piece into place
>you misaligned it by 90 degrees. The holes are for the vents
>that flank the machinery housing room on either side. You can
>easily fill in the holes, of course; just make sure you put
>the vents in the right places.
>
>Art Braunschweiger
>TRMA Trustee

hello Art and thankyou for your comments. They are very much aprreciated. I would like to answer some of them one at a time if I may..

the curved pipe - I corrected the straight part of the pipe that runs to the 2nd class entrance - which clearly it shouldnt. The kit has it running from the roof of that entrance to the roof of the deckhouse! so both ends of that pipe are incorrect. I believe I hAve fixed only one end - the one that now goes to the roof of the smoking room. The other end that will connect to the funnel will be fixed once the funnel is attached. I will probably replace the whole thing as it will show a few bends and breaks by the time I'm finished. So I hope I have fixed what I guess could be called the aft end of the flue only making this correction literally half done. I copied what has been done on the 1/48 model using the pictures and plans in his book. (Peter Davies-Garner)

The deck planking section of the aft elevator roof - the Academy kit seems to be undecisive what the surface should be. It is moulded with a timber grain on the wings and the roof, but the Anniversary edition kit does not include any timber sections on the veneer sheets and the instructions claim it should be painted white! Plainly wrong when checked against the TRMA painting guide etc. So I scatchbuilt the wood plank by cutting out a spare bit from the left overs. I mentioned this back in post number 24 of this thread. So the orientation of the two holes is certainly not from a kit supplied part. Furthermore the planks run along the length of the ship and a misoriented plank set would look quite out of place (east west) and these run according to plan. I drilled the two holes that can be seen because the kit had the holes there in the plastic roof and I just drilled out what was already there., However we know know the fore most hole is wrong s it is where the kit mates the flue mentioned above. Also, the aft most hole is for some other detail yet to be added (according to the instruction) . The two holes left and right of the elevator housing are yet to be drilled to mount the cylindrical details. I can see how the two holes in the wrong place could be mistaken for two missing holes from the right place , when misoriented at 90 degrees.

I hope that makes some sense.. if not trust me and all we be right by the end.

PLease, everyone, please keep challenging my build if you see any inconsistency or issues - I rather have opportunity to fix them now than when the rails are in place! Or at least the opportunity to offer a reason for the apparent fault.

Thankyou so much for your diligence! I feel like the members of this website are living up to their mission statement of "sharing their knowledge without reservation to further the pursuit of model making" .

Thankyou so very much.

Adam

  

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adamskiiMon Apr-02-12 08:14 PM
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#5704, "the infamous white star buff - my trials"
In response to Reply # 37


          

As I need to get the funnels mounted to fix up the flue pipe, I need them pianted. So here is my version of White Star Buff.

Firstly, as its a seems to be hit and miss and we all know the issues of this colour, I just used whatever I had to set a benchmark colour to work against. So I printed the TRMA paint guide in colour. Now I know that every printer wont reproduce a colour exactly as intended, indeed when producing a colour on a screen it is influenced by the illuminated screen amongst other things, but as I said - it gives me a starting point.

Then I used the guide , and the colours I had at my disposal, to make something as close as possible to the "suggested" colour by Ken Marschall. Here you can see my test patterns! I circled the ones that were closest tp the mark to the print page, the circle at the top being the mix I went with. The difficulty of course is even now looking at the photo it suffers from the same issues above..



SO once I chose a variation of the colour, I painted the funnels.
The colours I used are a combination of Floquil flesh and SP Armotur yellow (50:50) with a slight tint of Refer White and ATSF Mineral brown (80:20. The first two colours that carry the main hue were given a deeper shade with the red brown (this shifts the hue slightly darker), and then brought back up to pale with the white.

Anyways this is my results - have posed the funnels on the deck for the pic, and taken it in natural light outside - it is an overcast day but still quite bright!





As a side note, in red are all the missing vents or fans or other machinery so far I have found/ corrected from the Academy kit. Fortunately I had the spare kit as I raided all the fans etc to modify for this build. Worst part is this is not finished yet and I know of more yet to come..some are hidden by the funnels. And Ihave not yet made the water tank for behind no 1 funnel...



regards

Adam

  

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Art BraunschweigerTue Apr-03-12 06:16 AM
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#5705, "RE: the infamous white star buff - my trials"
In response to Reply # 38


  

          

Adam,

excellent job, great color choice and you can take pride in knowing that you mixed your own color.

Just remember to paint the funnel pipes black opposite the black on the funnels.

Regards
Art

  

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adamskiiTue Apr-03-12 10:18 PM
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#5710, "funnels and watertank"
In response to Reply # 39


          

Thanks for the very kind comments Art.

I have painted the funnel tops black (along with the top of the steam pipes). My only concern is there is nothing moulded on that looks remotely like steam whistles.. I guess I be scratching them too.





And also assembled a watertank. Managed to finally get all the fans in the right places (I Hope) that were not included. Still have to add the two black roof vents for the wireless room, and I am unhappy with the pipe that runs parralel to the deck - I dont think it should be a pipe at all ? looks like a box tube construction that somehow supports an annex? anyways.. will read more and work it out!



sorry for quality of pic.



Adam

  

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Art BraunschweigerWed Apr-04-12 06:15 AM
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#5713, "RE: funnels and watertank"
In response to Reply # 40


  

          

Adam,

fantastic job on your funnels, and a beautiful color choice.

The pipe you're asking about is an awning rafter. See below:

http://titanic-model.com/finds/decks/awningrafter.shtml

The problem is that for every model company out there, the guy who designed that part for the mold didn't understand what it was and got it wrong. All the kits have it as a pipe that curves up or down at one or both ends, whereas in reality it was mounted to the top of the Gibbs Extractor vent at one end and atop the edge of the stokehold vent at its other end (the latter vent must have had some sort of provision to allow the pipe to slide back and forth since it spanned the forward expansion joint.) It also had a support just aft of the expansion joint.

Peter Davies-Garner has this as being square in cross-section rather than cylindrical like a pipe; I think the jury is out on that one. I don't know what information he based this design on. Perhaps someone else knows.

This is an example of a detail that's easily corrected with impressive results for only a few cents of material. Styrene rod is available in diameters down to .010, which allows the modeler to replace the horribly oversized kit part with a replacement of the correct scale diameter.

Regards

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

  

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Ralph CurrellWed Apr-04-12 10:56 PM
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#5717, "Rafter cross-section"
In response to Reply # 41


          

Art Braunschweiger wrote:
>Peter Davies-Garner has this as being square in cross-section
>rather than cylindrical like a pipe; I think the jury is out
>on that one. I don't know what information he based this
>design on. Perhaps someone else knows.

Art and Adam,

I've seen a close-up photo of the rafter on Olympic in the 1930s, and it was definitely rectangular then. Unless there's some evidence that it was round in cross-section at an earlier date, I'd say rectangular or square is the way to go.

Regards,
Ralph

  

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bpreadFri Apr-06-12 05:16 AM
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#5720, "RE: Rafter cross-section"
In response to Reply # 43


          

Below is a maiden voyage Olympic photo showing the the rafter and the bracket for the rafter on the stokehold vent. You can see that the rafter is rectangular in cross section and the bracket is shaped to match.

Regards,
Bob Read





Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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Ralph CurrellFri Apr-06-12 01:20 PM
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#5721, "RE: Rafter cross-section"
In response to Reply # 45


          

Bob,

Thanks. That photo shows it perfectly.

Regards,
Ralph

  

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stevanovitchFri Apr-06-12 03:02 AM
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#5719, "RE: funnels and watertank"
In response to Reply # 40


          

Excellent attention to detail Adam - I`m in love with that watertank!
I only wish that I had a spare kit to raid; as you have noted, there is so much missing on the Acadamy kit.
Looking forward to seeing more.

Steve

  

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MLOGANWed Apr-04-12 06:30 AM
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#5715, "RE: the infamous white star buff - my trials"
In response to Reply # 38


          

Your color looks right on the money to me sir.......I hope I can get as close when I get to this stage in my build.....

  

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adamskiiSat Apr-07-12 09:52 AM
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#5726, "update deck houses and funnel stays"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Happy Easter folks.

Been slowly moving along addingthe finishing touches to the deck houses and boat decks so can Add the funnel stays.

I have done the handrails to all but funnel no 3 deckhouse. And am working out what thread I will use for the stays.

I have two primary threads - the one that came with the kit and a super fine nylon thats about half as thick as human hair.

here's the two in action..





I also have bead thread which would be somewhere in between, and will have to try that aswell. The superfine stuff is probably closest scale wise, but doesnt look right if that makes sense? the kit supplied thread is very very heavy and looks overbearing. So like goldilocks I need thread thats just right.,,

Anyways some other pics while I'm here -

this one you can see the reshaped flue from the smoke room to the no4 funnel.



railings around the pump room



railings and compass platform (still have to add some minor details in there..) on the lounge roof



officers quarters railing and the awning rail as previously discussed.



Also added a few bench chairs but now the rails are on I can add the rest to those areas.

Next step is rig the funnel stays, followed by the two long white sides and glue it all down to the main hull... that will be fun.

then I can add the lifeboats and their davits and finish up the well decks etc etc..

thanks for reading folks

Adamskii

  

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Jeff.MSun Apr-08-12 11:56 AM
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#5730, "RE: update deck houses and funnel stays"
In response to Reply # 47


          

Adam,

Keep up the great work. It is really coming together nicely.

Jeff

  

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stevanovitchMon Apr-09-12 11:30 AM
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#5733, "RE: update deck houses and funnel stays"
In response to Reply # 47


          

Adam, personally, I think the superfine thread looks good. The kit`s own thread really does look overbearing.
Your railing looks excellent by the way.

Regards,
Steve

  

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GaryADevineTue Apr-10-12 05:24 PM
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#5740, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0
Tue Apr-10-12 05:25 PMby GaryADevine

          

Fantastic!

I cant stop reading your blog, its great.

I was wondering, and maybe someone else can answer too, see if i dont but the 100th anniversary model and i just buy the normal one do i still get decking, benches, photoeches, etc or do i need to buy all of them?

And whos benches did you use, Toms or the models?

Great model, cant wait to see it finished,

Gary

  

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adamskiiTue Apr-10-12 06:20 PM
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#5742, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 50


          

hello and thanks for the comments.

the basic Academy kit has the benches moulded in place.. as a solid blob. There is no photo etch in that kit. The timber deck is Only inlcuded in the Anniversary edition kit (the main reason I bought that one and abandoned the original one).

I have used the Academy Photo etch benches which although slightly overscale (probably 1:350!). Neither Academy or Toms PE benches in 1/400 include both short and long seats. All are same length.

Hope this answers your questions..

Adamskii

  

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adamskiiWed Apr-11-12 04:43 AM
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#5744, "some more updates "
In response to Reply # 51


          

A few pics from the last few days.. been spoilt watching hours of documentaries on cable television while building!

Firstly the 3 funnel stay options I had - I went with the middle one- the bead thread. This thread is used for making jewelry and is fray resistant and very strong.



next once all the funnel stays were in place, I glued the two white sides of the hull on, and then mounted onto the hull. .. Instantly apparently is the fit issue - the decks are flat, the hull is a banna shape.. we have a gap to fill.....



my solution - use a thick cable tie to sinch down on the center of the apex of the parabolic curve, and then when tight glue in place!... lego was used to create spacers so the cable tie didnt crush the railings.



I have also started on the no.1 hatch. the kit part is simply a flat tile like a scrabble piece and has no surface detail or curve. I used styrene to build up the top and then a heap of squadron putty over the top. Once the putty cure I started sanding it back to create the hatch shape. Once another dose of filler is added to fill the small dents, I will add the relevant details.





been busy with lots of smaller details such as rails, cranes, cowels etc.

More pics soon!

Adam.

PS I really enjoyed Titanic : case closed ... good doco.

  

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adamskiiThu Apr-12-12 10:24 AM
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#5750, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 52


          

A few more updates from tonights work. Just plodding along with more rails, cranes etc. assembled a single lifeboat davit - these will be a serious challenge - very small and fidley with several parts per assembly..

Also in these pics you see my no1 cargo hatch, and the small store hatches on B deck.





lifeboats on the boat deck..



the single davit can be seen here..



the hatch and some other details..



will start thinking about putting the chains on tomorrow. also need to find out about the weird pacman vent, and the little rope tent. Also have discovered Academy have not included any spare anchors so need to scratch them.



thanks for checking in,

Adamskii

  

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Art BraunschweigerThu Apr-12-12 01:45 PM
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#5751, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 53


  

          

Adam,

Beautiful, beautiful model. This needs to go in the Finished Models gallery when you're done. All your details are crisp and clean and your paintwork is outstanding.

With any lesser model I wouldn't bother asking this, but since your attention to detail is superb, I will. Can you move your four steam valves forward of the No. 1 hatch without any problem? They weren't all in line.

Art

  

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adamskiiFri Apr-13-12 04:00 AM
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#5759, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 54


          

Hello Art and thank you for your comments.. lets not tempt fate just yet as I have no experience with rigging and anything coulkd happen there!

When I log on and see "Art" has replied to my posts I get that feeling in the pit of my stomach that I can only liken in intensity to what the gladiators must of felt when the emperor held his thumb out, waiting to see if it went up or down... Your comments are very much respected and I would suggest to anyone given such advice to ignore at their own peril.... please take that as a compliment!

My 4 steam valves which are nothing more than 4 stalks of styrene that are waiting on me to fabicate the wheels are very easy to move/ remove. In fact I was worried when I read in another post about the telephone box and valves being removed while the ship was underway.. And therefore not even sure they should be modelled at all (just the sockets? ).. either way I found a few things at a shop today I will detail later that will mean removing them for now anyways.

The only question I have is, If they don't belong there, where do they go ? I used PDG's books plan and followed his fordeck plan as best I could... unless they are staggered or different heights and I have missed it. The book has the 4 capstan steam valves closer to the hatch than the chain gears, and in a straight line, spaced evenly, slightly forward of and between the two big capstans.

I will of course now study whatever is available to see where they should go.. but a your advice would muchly be appreciated.

To Larry (Lcurchoe), the decks I used are the ones supplied with teh Anniversary kit and are pre stamped with all shapes as need (except where they are wrong ..) As such they are the natural colour they came as and neither painted or provided as optional colour choice! even so they are innacurate in several ways , not least the plank pattern is completely uniform and does not account for the wider plansk at the chain gear, or the planks that run around the perimeter of nearly all deck features.

Regards

Adam

  

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bpreadFri Apr-13-12 05:27 AM
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#5760, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 56
Fri Apr-13-12 05:50 AMby bpread

          

These are the valve positions that Bruce Beveridge and I worked on in 2007 utilizing wreck photos. There was a lengthy thread back then on the forum. Below is a drawing of what was finally settled on. The red lines indicate deck beam centers.

Regards,
Bob Read


Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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adamskiiFri Apr-13-12 11:13 AM
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#5762, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 57


          

Thankyou very very much for this drawing. It greatly assists! Another Gem of knowledge revealed to me that otherwise I would never of considered!

Much appreciated, once again I am reminded why I joined and keep coming back to this forum/ site.. the open sharing of knowledge.

WIth the above information I have rearranged the steam valves, using some dressmaking pins.. heres some pics of a few things I bought after a visit to the craft section of the local habidashery store, in particular the jewelery making aisle has loads of stuff model makers can improvise with - not the least the bead thread which is very very thin (about .3mm) and is fray resistant. ALso got some brass coloured 1.5mm beads and crimps to do the compass housing and other bridge devices..





the dressmaking pin heads are quite good valve handle replicas at 1/400 scale...



new arrangement.



also used the pins to replicate the mushroom vents on some of the deck houses..



and lastly trhe components that make up the Academy version of the lifeboat davits..



Thanks again folks..

Adam

  

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lcurchoeFri Apr-13-12 12:43 PM
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#5763, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 58


  

          

Adam,
Interesting I did not know that kit came with the decking. I am working on the minicraft 350 kit which doesn't provide any decking. I am using scale decks blank and it is challenging to say the least with out having pre marked cuts. In any case seeing your kit still has given me several ideas for the future and I really appreciate the detail you have gone to in documenting your build! Its a gorgious day here so I think I am going to do some out door pics shortly on my own build. Again thank you for your inspiration!

Thanks so much,
Larry

  

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lcurchoeFri Apr-13-12 01:09 PM
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#5765, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 58


  

          

Adam,
Interesting I did not know that kit came with the decking. I am working on the minicraft 350 kit which doesn't provide any decking. I am using scale decks blank and it is challenging to say the least with out having pre marked cuts. In any case seeing your kit still has given me several ideas for the future and I really appreciate the detail you have gone to in documenting your build! Its a gorgious day here so I think I am going to do some out door pics shortly on my own build. Again thank you for your inspiration!

Thanks so much,
Larry

  

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lcurchoeThu Apr-12-12 07:24 PM
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#5756, "RE: some more updates "
In response to Reply # 53


  

          

Adam,
I love your model it is really an amazing job! Can I ask what did you use for decking? I ve seen what you did nd how you did it your technique to cutting the shapes was amazing! I wish I would have done better with mine but if that is from scale decks I'm curious what "color" it is because it looks great!

Thanks so much,
Larry

  

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cbcdesignSun Apr-15-12 09:48 AM
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#5788, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 50


          

Hi Adam.

Really impressed with your modelling skills!

I too am building this particular model kit at the moment. Unfortunately I have come to a grinding halt because the Forecastle and poopdecks are badly wharped (The kit came like that) so I am having to apply a lot of weight to them to correct it.

In the meantime I shall be following your progress with great interest and hopefully picking up some tips along the way.

Alan.

  

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adamskiiSun Apr-15-12 08:55 PM
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#5789, "lifeboat davits and other updates"
In response to Reply # 61


          

Thanks again folks for the comments - they motivate me to not l;et my standard slip, and to try harder to raise the bar.

I did not build yesterday, but saturday night and this morning I did manage to assemble the lifeboat davits and the railings behind them. The davit assembly in the Academy Anniversary kit is mad up of 6 parts (5 for an end davit) so they are very very fiddely and if bent more than 2 times in any direction - snap!

Anyways here are some pics. Also I have changed the spare anchor crane spar brace as it was solid and should be a pair. Also the seats on the poop deck are finally in position (some fine tuining for better alignment to do here) And I think I have to move two cowl vents on the poop.. more research needed.

Anyways , the pics... before I go off on tangents again..

overviews of where I am at now..





poop deck





crane correction and the chains are added. the kit chains are ordinary.



and the davits/ lifeboat assembly. rigging this will be "fun".

starport aft side



port aft side



port fore side



Thanks for reading ( and I am concerened I have painted the hatches on B deck canvas and should be grey ? this kit is two steps forward 1 step back, watch this space )

Adamskii

  

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Art BraunschweigerSun Apr-15-12 09:05 PM
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#5790, "RE: lifeboat davits and other updates"
In response to Reply # 62


  

          

Adam,

magnificent work! And not to worry, the B-Deck stores hatches had canvas covers and should not be painted grey.

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

  

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Matt OBrienSun Apr-15-12 11:55 PM
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#5793, "RE: lifeboat davits and other updates"
In response to Reply # 62


  

          

Adam,

What blows me away is your model was started only a month ago! You really have done an outstanding job. Your dioramas, too, are incredible. Well done. I look forward to the finished product.

Regards ............. Matt

  

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stevanovitchMon Apr-16-12 06:03 AM
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#5796, "RE: lifeboat davits and other updates"
In response to Reply # 64


          

Adam, I have to agree with Matt - you make this look all too easy! I do have one concern though. Having seen your incredible Iraq diorama, I`m wondering if there`s going to be any chickens walking around on the poop deck!

Outstanding work.
Regards, Steve

  

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adamskiiMon Apr-16-12 09:23 AM
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#5799, "RE: lifeboat davits and other updates"
In response to Reply # 66


          

Lol, thanks for the kind comments. No chickens coming home to roost on this one....

However. I do have 64 x 1/400 3d figures that I am considering installing.. This build was supposed to be a diorama, but am leaning away from it. ( I never corrected below the waterline for that reason) but am liking the clean build enough to just mount it as a static display.

Interestingly no one on this website seems to have found out about these figures... they still use the horrid flat PE ones! Or they know about them and havent used them.. for reasons I cannot fathom.

Adam

  

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Spellbinder99Sun May-06-12 07:35 AM
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#5932, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 50


          

Gary, I have both the normal and limited edition of this kit, but not the Anniversary version. However, the Anniversary version only differs from the limited one in having a small booklet, a jigsaw puzzle and turned brass jackstaff.

The normal version does not have the photoetch sheets of parts or the wood decking material, plus all its etch is just brass while the anniversary version has one sheet painted in white apparently.

So yes, if you buy the normal boxing you will have to buy the other stuff as aftermarket.

Cheers

Tony

  

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Jimbo in ThailandMon Apr-16-12 01:48 AM
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#5795, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Greetings from Thailand Adam!

I discovered TRMA and your gorgeous project just a few days ago. Thought it fitting to join the forum here yesterday on the 100th anniversary. First, I want to say how beautiful your model is. Your work is simply incredible especially considering the small 1/400 scale. When I look at the details in your photos I am amazed that your model is only around 3 inches wide (beam). All I can say is that you must have incredibly steady hands! If you don't mind I have a few questions.

The first question is early on you mentioned, "Firstly, the fore well deck is horizontal and not parralel with the keel line - so it has an uneven balwark that reduces in height front to back - this will be rapaired but not just yet." Have you made that repair? In regards to that, compared to the straight waterline, it appears the Titanic's (keel line?)/decks must be bowed concave upwards. Each deck's portholes also follow this slightly curved line. This is really apparent in front quartering photos of Titanic. I don't have any of the reference materials here and am wondering is this true that the decks aren't horizontal but bowed?

The second question is did you paint all white items in matte white? It's hard to tell from the photos but some of the upper decks walls and miscellaneous machinery, sort of have that plastic sheen look.

OK, a couple of comments. One of the glaring Academy kit deficiencies becomes very obvious with the addition of the very detailed PE upgrade parts. I'm talking about the ships white Lego-ish detail deck vent funnels. Not only do they not look correctly shaped, but OMG they appear to be solid blobs of plastic, not hollow like they should be. Does no one make more accurately detailed funnels? They probably wouldn't stand out so badly except your model is so finely detailed.

This is just my opinion so please feel free to ignore it. ;^) The marked up photo below shows the aft stairs going from B deck down to the aft Well deck, which looks a bit peculiar because the gates are closed. At first glance it looks like an error like the stairs just dead end into the B deck aft railing. After watching the movie Titanic again yesterday I watched as a distraught Rose had to briefly stop and open the gate as she ran down the stairs to the Well deck heading for the stern.



For me personally it just looks slightly odd, but again just my 2 worth.

Finally, thanks so much for posting your progress and including excellent photos. I've learned so much from you just by following this thread.

Best regards!

Jim Murphy

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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adamskiiMon Apr-16-12 09:38 AM
Member since Mar 12th 2012
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#5801, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 65


          

>Greetings from Thailand Adam!
>
>I discovered TRMA and your gorgeous project just a few days
>ago. Thought it fitting to join the forum here yesterday on
>the 100th anniversary. First, I want to say how beautiful
>your model is. Your work is simply incredible especially
>considering the small 1/400 scale. When I look at the details
>in your photos I am amazed that your model is only around 3
>inches wide (beam). All I can say is that you must have
>incredibly steady hands! If you don't mind I have a few
>questions.
>
>The first question is early on you mentioned, "Firstly, the
>fore well deck is horizontal and not parralel with the keel
>line - so it has an uneven balwark that reduces in height
>front to back - this will be rapaired but not just yet."

>Have you made that repair? In regards to that, compared to
>the straight waterline, it appears the Titanic's (keel
>line?)/decks must be bowed concave upwards. Each deck's
>portholes also follow this slightly curved line. This is
>really apparent in front quartering photos of Titanic. I
>don't have any of the reference materials here and am
>wondering is this true that the decks aren't horizontal but
>bowed?
>
>The second question is did you paint all white items in matte
>white? It's hard to tell from the photos but some of the
>upper decks walls and miscellaneous machinery, sort of have
>that plastic sheen look.
>
>OK, a couple of comments. One of the glaring Academy kit
>deficiencies becomes very obvious with the addition of the
>very detailed PE upgrade parts. I'm talking about the ships
>white Lego-ish detail deck vent funnels. Not only do they not
>look correctly shaped, but OMG they appear to be solid blobs
>of plastic, not hollow like they should be. Does no one make
>more accurately detailed funnels? They probably wouldn't
>stand out so badly except your model is so finely detailed.
>
>This is just my opinion so please feel free to ignore it. ;^)
>The marked up photo below shows the aft stairs going from B
>deck down to the aft Well deck, which looks a bit peculiar
>because the gates are closed. At first glance it looks like
>an error like the stairs just dead end into the B deck aft
>railing. After watching the movie Titanic again yesterday I
>watched as a distraught Rose had to briefly stop and open the
>gate as she ran down the stairs to the Well deck heading for
>the stern.
>

>
>Best regards!
>
>Jim Murphy
>

Thankd for taking the time to write such a good response. Muchly appreciated!

As for the well deck correction. simply no it was not done. It was intended but the solution I had (drop the aft end of the foreward well deck by about 1.5mm) would of created some other insurmountable issues. The better fix , with the benefit of hindsight, would be to raise the fore end ofthe well deck about 1-1.5mm. much easier to do especially while cleaning up the under deck issues. SO no its not done, and I have not installed the upright braces within the welldeck yet, yet..

if you look real close at the railing above the stairs you can see the gates. I think you answered your own comment there mostly?

As for the white, yes everything has been painted with the same white - I used Tamiya extra fine white primer as my white base. I sprayed everything on the sprue, and when I have to use touch ups I use mr gunze aqueaous hobby colour white acrylic as the paint. I know a few spots that almost seem translucent due to their thickness and provide an uneven sheen, but also some areas have been covered wuith dullcoat that can also create that situation you are reporting. but if something is there I have missed be specific and I will happily redress the issue.

The cowls are just another example of whats fail about academy kit. Yes I guess i could of drilled out them vents, but after installing 3 or 4 and not drilling them out, then realising the look, I just kind of went with it. Yes I should of addressed it, I know it looks a bit "lego like" , but also the kit has only 1 size cowl and apparently there are supposed to be several sizes on the ship - I guess its a coase of where do you stop. AS some have noticed, and I have noted, I build very fast. I am the worst kind of model builder - I am extraordinarily impatient, and have very high standards (that I rarely achieve) - usually the standard is created by the level of haste displayed and in this case (cowls) I am guilty very much of not taking the time to drill em out at least. I do have a fix though - either a black dot where the hole should be (or dk grey or something shadow like) or hand paint small crecent shadow on the face of each vent to give the impression of an opening. Will trial it out maybe.

Anyways Thanks very much for the comments and I always appreciate people who pick an issue for me to fix or at least explain! Some model communities / forums frown on criticism. I prefer it.

Adam

  

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bflynn2159Mon Apr-16-12 01:42 PM
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#5803, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 68


  

          

looking pretty good man! the benches came out real nice. have you ever done the minicraft kit? if so which one do you like better? i was thinking about doing the academy 1/400 since mine got destroyed but i really like the 350

Enjoy!
--Brian Flynn

  

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adamskiiMon Apr-16-12 09:59 PM
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#5810, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 69


          

Hiya and thanks for the comments. I believe your model was far and away much tidier than mine and it is a terrible shame what happened. Look at the bright side - your spares parts box just became oneof the best in the business..

Wow @ the whole Academy vs Minicraft thing. Seriously. As far as I can tell the only thing the Academy kit has going for it the optional timber decking sets. I have no Minicraft experience, so can only take what is offerd in other blogs as opinion, but it certainly looks sharper in some aspects.

This might sound weird but if I built again, I would probably build another Academy kit. but properly. I dont like the sound of building the Academy one as a trial for the minicraft venture.. the trial kit IMHO should be the same kit as the real run.

On the other hand if someone offers an aftermarket timber deck set for the minicraft kit.. then Im in! I guess I am spoiled by the AE kit and to me as a virgin shipbuilder it sets the standard of what I expect in a ship kit.

I have an idea for your "wreck "if you like.. how about doing a cross section? imagine cutting the ship like a french stick of bread - and taking one of the slices out.. I been toying with the idea of this with my spare (albeit plundered) kit. Maybe take a 2 inch slice out the middle and do the interior decks, engines maybe show the staircase? or the engine room? or take a slice at the front with the wheel house? just a thought as I have no Idea how salvageable your kit is. When I have busted kits before I usually pull the good bits off and stick the original stuff back on and give to a nephew or something to play with. Or use it as a trial paint kit - I have a squadron of tank hulks for that purpose ! Anyways I have not seen anyone else do that with a Titanic kit.

Once again thanks for the comments - respect!

Adam

  

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stugilmourThu Apr-19-12 07:12 PM
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#5818, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 70


          

First post for me. Hope I did it correctly.

Adam, great job! You have motivated me to buy this kit. Would you advise I purchase the brass windows from Tom's I believe? You mentioned difficulties with fitment, but results look good. Also, for the well deck mod, would it be easier to pre-paint the scratch wall parts internal to the deck extension?

Sorry if I posted incorrectly; not sure if I should have replied to the appropriate post way up in the blog.

Thanks again for the detail. This will really help my build. Still researching but did the puzzle with my wife to get started :-).

Stu, Calgary AB

  

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adamskiiThu Apr-19-12 10:13 PM
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#5820, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 71


          

Thankyou for your post. I am glad to have been an inspiration of some kind.

The windows. Tom's, YES must have, in fact get 2 sets to have a spare! these are possibly the most important aftermarket addition to the overal finish of the anniversey edition kit (in my opinion). Although the fit is difficult in some areas - such as way down on C deck near the aft well deck, It is not a problem that cant be overcome. Where they make the biggest difference is all the arched windows up on the boat deck, and the officers quarters windows- I almost say be near impossible to hand paint them cleanly.

Pre paint the deck mod - Absolutely - I did not and had to "fiddle" around to make it look alright - but It would of been easier to pre paint.

And lastly - the most under rated tool in modelling ever - the blessing of the wife to do themodel in the first place! Good work having her help with the jigsaw. I also try to involve my wife as much as possible such as asking her to help spray paint things like the hull or always ask opinion on ifsomething looks straight or out of place or colours are ok - otherwise I would become a recluse in the man cave and she would not like that. ....

Adamskii

  

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adamskiiMon Apr-23-12 09:46 AM
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#5836, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Been almost a week since last proper update. I think I have had Titanic burn out! But probably been stalling because the worst part of this kit is just around the corner - the front of piece to the wheel house/ bridge and A/ B decks. the Academy kit fit of this piece is nothing short of abysmal. ANyways, put something together that resembles the bridge - however its so small that almost none of it can be seen! regardless, here's my interpretation.

First the 5 items I have no clue what the technical term is ( have the speed indicators such as ahead or stern and half full etc) tillers? electric indicators? Someone enlighten me. Its hard to look it up when you dont know what its called! Anyways, to make them I insert several gold jewelry making band crimps over a 1mm styrene rod.



then using some old 1:35 scale fencing, I cut a suitable flared stand from the posts and glue them to the crimps.





Then sliced the crimps off the styrene rod, coloured the cut off's black (to represent the dial of the device), and glued in place, 3 to the starport, 2 to the port (from centerline) The same technique used to make the telemotor stand for the wheel(The wheel in the wheel house cannot be seen). Also added was the black pole floor to ceiling, and the black square compass binnacle.I will add a brass detail to of the binnacle when I paint next..





So in the next few days I will muster the courage to put that face plate on. Hopefully my fly tie thread turns up soon..

Adam

  

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stevanovitchMon Apr-23-12 01:11 PM
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#5837, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 73


          

Adam, they`re called telegraphs, and once again your inventiveness astounds and illuminates me. Now, where`s my local jewellers` supply shop?

Steve

  

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Marco TulnerTue Apr-24-12 07:10 AM
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#5839, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 74


  

          

This is realy an outstanding job, Adam.
I already have one kit of the 1/400 centenary anniversary edition. Now I'm waiting for the arrival of the other two. (will probably be next month) When I get those I will start to build the Big Three all together. But enough about me.

I have a question though. Isn't the bow anchor well supposed to be white on the inside instead of the black/darkgrey you used?
I'm asking this, because I saw on Rivet Counter anchor tutorial where it is indeed painted flat white.

Regards,
Marco Tulner

  

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Art BraunschweigerTue Apr-24-12 04:53 PM
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#5840, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 75


  

          

Marco,

if you look carefully, you'll see that Adam has the sides of the anchor well white, and the bottom black. An early photo of Olympic's anchor well shows the sides to be white and the bottom a dark color, although it's impossible to tell if it's black or grey.

Art Braunschweiger
TRMA Trustee

  

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Marco TulnerWed Apr-25-12 05:47 AM
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#5845, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 76


  

          

Thanks for the answer Art. I think I have to get me some new glasses.

Too bad Father Browne wasn't allowed beyond the splashguard. Altough the Oplympic-photographs give us good references, I always have in mind that Titanic had some differences. For example the railings on the walls were white, instead of brown as they were on the Olympic. This was because Titanic wasn't quiet finished when she left for her maiden voyage.
So in my eyes, it wouldn't be strange if the inside of the anchor well would have been entirely white. Or grey, if it still was a layer of primer.

(Excuse me for my English. I'm trying to do my best.)

Regards,
Marco Tulner

  

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adamskiiSat May-05-12 02:05 AM
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#5923, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 73


          

Hi folks. been nearly 2 weeks since I posted an update. I been having some trouble and spent a bit of time mustering the motivation to deal with it.

Firstly - the front bulwark piece. this is a bad fit in every sense of the word. I have it now in place and a few layers of filler - but the alignment is not great and will takemore work to tidy all that misalignment up.





the bigger problem though is the rigging. the funnel shrouds (i been calling them stays - oops) I used some really great thread as previously described and was real happy with it. Until I received the fly tie UNI thread as reccomended in the TRMA rigging guide. I realised that the grey uni thread is 100 times better than what I used and have had to go back and rerig the funnels. this is not easy as the previous thread was glued in place, and I no longer had access under the boat deck to aid in the rigging.

the pictures speak for themselves I think. I am not finished and havemych work to tidy the accidents up that inevitably occur while re rigging .







you can still see the original black thread I used (wrong colour) compared to the funnels I have rigged with the new uni thread.

Also put some white styrene strip where the waterways are in the welldecks..

Adam

  

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Matt OBrienSat May-05-12 11:34 AM
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#5924, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"


  

          

Adam,

What a stark difference the rigging change makes. Looks great. I also like the shade of White Star Buff you've chosen.

Don't you just love those fit issues with the bulkheads?

Look forward to more ...... Matt

  

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Matt OBrienSat May-05-12 11:34 AM
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#5925, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 78
Sun May-06-12 12:24 PMby Matt OBrien

  

          

...

  

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Matt OBrienSat May-05-12 11:46 AM
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#5926, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 79


  

          

Sorry for the double post. I blame the equipment, not the operator.

.... Matt

  

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mauretania1906Sun May-06-12 06:14 AM
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#5930, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 80


  

          

Hi

What can I say. Superb. Excellent choice for buff! Really an awesome build. My hat is off.

Best wishes - congratulations.

Eric

  

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NautibearSat Feb-07-15 08:16 AM
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#7906, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 73


          

Hi Adam!

I am just starting to build the original one (#1458) so I was looking for build stories and came across yours. It is very helpful with a lot of excellent pictures. So, thank you! I never did find pictures of your completed build. Did you finish it? Would love to see them! I've had this in a closet for at least 10 years and decided to do it as a refresher because I want to build the Queen Mary 2 1/400. Thanks again for all your time and energy you put into created this reference!

Anne

  

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bazerMon May-07-12 02:37 AM
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#5937, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Hi Adam
Have just found this site after buying "Toms Titanic windows" your model looks great. Have just started a model myself and have started going through your build potos etc wich are very helpful,having just come to the windows, how did you fit them to the model as I have found that a lot of them are to small for the openings!.

Regards
barry.

  

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adamskiiMon May-07-12 08:07 AM
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#5939, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 83


          

Hi and thanks for the comments and question.

I did mention some of these issues earlier on but a quick recap ( re windows not fitting), the first windows I framed were the hidden one level with the well deck hidden by the bulwark corridors, to make fit I glued a strip of styrene behind the windows and placed the frames in the hole recessed. The higher up the decks u go it gets much easier because the windows in most have frames crossing them ( there is a proper term for that but I cannot recal it) the arches for example. Be Carefull with the big ornate window frames as they protube through the decks. Also the cafe Parisian windows are hard to decipher and I think should be white not brown . Also the two rear framed doors to said cafe are also supposed to be white I think and I painted brown. I did not read the rivet counter window guide until after I had started and encountered problems and regret not reading it earlier

Hope some of that helps!

Adam

  

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Francois.peyperTue May-08-12 06:26 AM
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#5947, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 83


          

Hi Adam, I recieved my kit this past weekend and started working on it.

have found a few issues with the kit with parts not fitting as they should but thats plastic haha.

So far its going on good, I even added some lights to it
Hope u guys like it


Attachment #1, (jpg file)

  

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bazer1Thu May-17-12 02:48 AM
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#5985, "RE: Adam Lehmann, 1/400 Titanic, Academy Anniversay Edition 14202"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Hi Adam
Been following your posts with interest
I am a bit stuck on the wood decking do you remove wood from plastic and if so what glue do you use.

Thank you
barry

  

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