First of all, the best wishes for 2016 to everybody in this community!
Some of you might remember me from the 1/350 waterline Minicraft with lighting that I did in 2014 and early 2015. Pictures of that build are still available further down in this forum.
In the mean time I managed to sell the Minicraft, and I intend to use the experience I gathered during that build in something a bit bigger and more ambitious; the 1/250 Amati model. Essentially this project will be the same as the Minicraft build, so a waterline ship with lighting, but I will take advantage of the larger scale to obtain a higher level of detail. I am aiming for something like Art's Minicraft, but time will tell if that is feasible
However, with the Amati having a planked-frame wooden hull, I am already facing my first challenge: how to do a waterline conversion to such a hull. All the frame parts have alternating slits that allow them to slide together, but these slits will cause the frames to fall apart when sawn in half. I am still thinking of a way to circumvent this.
Anyway, it is nice to be back! My first estimate for the duration of this project is two years, so I will be here for the foreseeable future
#8696, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0 Wed Jan-13-16 06:52 AMby Titanic5972
I too decided that I would like a waterline/ sinking version of the 1/250 Amati model. I purchased a full set of unopened magazines with the intent of making a highly detailed full model for display, and my previously built model was to be adjusted. Trying to cut the hull of a finished model resulted in the planks flying off and was just not a good idea.
My suggestion would be to build the full centre keel in one piece on a flat surface, and use the support pieces higher up than what the magazine says to use them. That way the keel can be cut with a jigsaw or similar while it is still flat. Then dry fit the frames/ bulkheads and mark them so they can then be cut as well.
I would personally leave 3-4 mm extra and then, if you are planning to model it sitting in "water", you can just add extra water mixture to ensure it sits at the correct level.
Hope this is of some help and not too confusing
PS: if you are going for a highly detailed model, I would recommend using the photo etched parts from the following site www.minibrass.com I used all the available plates, and they make a huge difference to the model, especially using the walls in these plates rather than the cardboard printed walls. And the 3D domes look incredible too!
#8747, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0 Mon Feb-08-16 08:29 AMby Chris Krook
Here is the first picture of my 1/250 Amati build, the work so far has already proven to be quite a challenge. I wanted to do the kit as a waterline model, which meant cutting right through the keel piece and all the individual frames. And getting all the pieces glued in the right place perfectly flat on a base plate without warping was a real headache, but so far so good!
If you look closely at frames 3 through 9, you can see that I corrected them for the known error in the shape of these frames in the Amati kit, which results in an incorrect hull shape if not corrected.
Before I can do the hull planking I first have to install the lighting in the hull. I already "hollowed-out" all the frames to get optimal light distribution throughout the hull without the necessity for an LED in-between every two frames.
#8750, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0
Here is an example of the appearance of the decks I have chosen for my model. The Amati model comes with pretty nice 2 mm veneer strips for de deck planking, the only problem is that 2 mm translates to 50 cm on 1/250 scale, which is far too wide for the individual planks.
I chose to draw on the additional planks with a sharp pencil, and I think it looks nice enough. I tried slicing the strips into narrower ones, but the result did not justify the extra effort.