First of all, the best wishes for 2016 to everybody in this community!
Some of you might remember me from the 1/350 waterline Minicraft with lighting that I did in 2014 and early 2015. Pictures of that build are still available further down in this forum.
In the mean time I managed to sell the Minicraft, and I intend to use the experience I gathered during that build in something a bit bigger and more ambitious; the 1/250 Amati model. Essentially this project will be the same as the Minicraft build, so a waterline ship with lighting, but I will take advantage of the larger scale to obtain a higher level of detail. I am aiming for something like Art's Minicraft, but time will tell if that is feasible
However, with the Amati having a planked-frame wooden hull, I am already facing my first challenge: how to do a waterline conversion to such a hull. All the frame parts have alternating slits that allow them to slide together, but these slits will cause the frames to fall apart when sawn in half. I am still thinking of a way to circumvent this.
Anyway, it is nice to be back! My first estimate for the duration of this project is two years, so I will be here for the foreseeable future
#8683, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 1
It's nice to finally speak to you "in person". At the time of my build you were not active on the forum, and I always regretted that because I regarded your build as the main inspiration for mine :) I would love to hear your feedback on what I did right and what I could have done better, it will certainly make this new endeavor even more fruitful.
#8685, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 2
Welcome back, Chris. I see you've returned for more "punishment". I'm looking forward to this build, especially after the great job you did on the 1/350. I'm sure going one size larger will look fantastic.
#8696, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0 Wed Jan-13-16 05:52 AMby Titanic5972
I too decided that I would like a waterline/ sinking version of the 1/250 Amati model. I purchased a full set of unopened magazines with the intent of making a highly detailed full model for display, and my previously built model was to be adjusted. Trying to cut the hull of a finished model resulted in the planks flying off and was just not a good idea.
My suggestion would be to build the full centre keel in one piece on a flat surface, and use the support pieces higher up than what the magazine says to use them. That way the keel can be cut with a jigsaw or similar while it is still flat. Then dry fit the frames/ bulkheads and mark them so they can then be cut as well.
I would personally leave 3-4 mm extra and then, if you are planning to model it sitting in "water", you can just add extra water mixture to ensure it sits at the correct level.
Hope this is of some help and not too confusing
PS: if you are going for a highly detailed model, I would recommend using the photo etched parts from the following site www.minibrass.com I used all the available plates, and they make a huge difference to the model, especially using the walls in these plates rather than the cardboard printed walls. And the 3D domes look incredible too!
#8697, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 4
Thanks for the input, very valuable. Now I know for sure that the option of building a full hull and then cutting that to size with a jigsaw or something similar is not a good idea :)
In the mean time I have already decided on a solution similar to what you are describing.
I will assemble the total center keel and cut it at the waterline, then glue all the separate pieces vertically onto a perfectly flat base plate of 3 mm plywood. I will then make waterline cuts on all the individual frames and glue them onto the base plate and center keel one by one. That 3 mm plywood base plate will also provide the extra needed height to make the model sit in the water at the correct level when it is completed.
Concerning the Minibrass PE-parts; I was already planning on buying those :) The only part I was doubting about is the B/C deck longitudinal profiles. The Amati full kit version of the model already comes with a nice amount of PE-parts including B/C deck longitudinal profiles, and they already look pretty good. I wonder if it is worth the extra 157 euros of getting the Minibrass versions. I have never seem them up close side by side. What do you think?
#8698, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 5
I have never seen the full Amati kit before, just the part work magazine so I can't comment on their comparison. Compared to the wooden parts in the part work, the minibrass parts are a great improvement. If you send me a PM I can send you some images that the owner of Minibrass sent me of the B/C deck parts.
#8747, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0 Mon Feb-08-16 07:29 AMby Chris Krook
Here is the first picture of my 1/250 Amati build, the work so far has already proven to be quite a challenge. I wanted to do the kit as a waterline model, which meant cutting right through the keel piece and all the individual frames. And getting all the pieces glued in the right place perfectly flat on a base plate without warping was a real headache, but so far so good!
If you look closely at frames 3 through 9, you can see that I corrected them for the known error in the shape of these frames in the Amati kit, which results in an incorrect hull shape if not corrected.
Before I can do the hull planking I first have to install the lighting in the hull. I already "hollowed-out" all the frames to get optimal light distribution throughout the hull without the necessity for an LED in-between every two frames.
#8750, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 0
Here is an example of the appearance of the decks I have chosen for my model. The Amati model comes with pretty nice 2 mm veneer strips for de deck planking, the only problem is that 2 mm translates to 50 cm on 1/250 scale, which is far too wide for the individual planks.
I chose to draw on the additional planks with a sharp pencil, and I think it looks nice enough. I tried slicing the strips into narrower ones, but the result did not justify the extra effort.
#8817, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 10
I'm a new member of this forum but I've been looking and visiting again and again this site in order to learn more information about my favourite ship, the Titanic. I've always admired replicas of this ship from since I can remember. I wanted to share with you my admiration of your model making skills and nite work. As an architecture student I know making models is a time consuming process, but the end result is always worth it. It was your 1/350 minicraft model that made me choose to build this kit of Titanic. Unfortunately I was unable to see your finished waterline model as the links did not work. I've already purchased my kit and extra photo eched brass parts, but I'll have to wait to finish my school semester to start building my ship, as my Bachelor is my priority. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see your progress on your Amati model.
#8823, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 14
Thank you for your kind words! And that's the nice thing about this forum; getting inspiration from others to take your work to the next level. I was inspired by Art Braunschweiger's Minicraft,and although I never got anywhere near to his level of detail it is nice to know that in turn my work has inspired yet another builder.
I'm aware that the links of my finished Minicraft model are not working. I will try to put some new ones up in that thread. In the mean time I have posted a couple below.
Best regards, and good luck on finishing your bachelor! :)
#9384, "RE: Chris' 1/250 Amati" In response to Reply # 19
I also finally got around to doing some work on my model again. I must say that the reveal of Art's website (breathtaking work by the way, Art) "re-ignited my spark" a bit, so I hope I will be able to pick up the pace again.
When I started this build I intended to use Art's model as a reference. I was hoping that, at the slightly larger 1:250 scale, I would be able to achieve a similar level of detailing with less effort. But now that I've seen the website, I realize that I must admit that I probably don't have the patience or perseverance to reach that amazing level of detail.
But I'm enjoying the build, and I guess that's what counts :)